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Geronimo

5.8, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3 from 100 votes
FA: Stephen Mergenthaler, Ed Palen, Bob Starinsky Sept. 2003
New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champla… > Deadwater > Main Cliff

Description

A deceptively tricky off-width just right of the clean Bozeman Bullet face.

Climb up, and through the tenuous off-width, clipping 2 bolts. Gain access to the ledge below the steep right-facing corner. Climb this, then head up and right to another steep corner. Use large incut buckets, and surprisingly good feet to gain access to the upper face. Continue to the top and shared anchor with Bozeman Bullet.

Location

The all-too-obvious off-width to the right of Bozeman Bullet.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hilarious gear placement beta just after the offwidth start. Photo by Stacey L.!
[Hide Photo] Hilarious gear placement beta just after the offwidth start. Photo by Stacey L.!
Geronimo
[Hide Photo] Geronimo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
[Hide Comment] There is a fun variation to this route that takes the hand crack through the obvious roof to the right of the ledge 2/3 of the way up. The Lawyer/Haas book has this at 5.9, but for me it felt harder as the described "perfect hand crack" ended up being a weird size for my hands. Bring #1 and #2 C4 size pieces for the roof crack. Mar 22, 2010
John Richardson
Greenfield, Ma
 
[Hide Comment] skip the two bolts with your #5 and #6 C4's :-) Apr 3, 2011
Nick W
Orford, NH
[Hide Comment] Definitely do the 5.9 handcrack through the roof to the right. Better finish, well protected, and really just one move. Apr 8, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Did the 5.8 roof crack, and the moves are pretty stiff. Thinking more like 5.8+, and the lead who climbed through the 5.9 variation thought it was much tougher (like 5.10-something). Jun 5, 2011
Nick W
Orford, NH
[Hide Comment] Its easier (for me) than the roof on Moby Grape(5.8). Perfect hands with a sinker constriction once you pull it that is super secure. But I have relatively small hands. Nov 21, 2011
Benjamin Brooke
San Pedro, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] having a four and a five C4 arent necessary but its fun to use them on this climb. Jul 12, 2012
[Hide Comment] My hands are larger, so it took some fiddling to get a jam (sort of a thumb cam?) I felt solid on in the high crux bulge on the main route.
? Harder than 5.8 ? I'd say either you can get a jam with your right hand solid enough to hold you for a moment on the overhang while you grab with your left -- or you cannot. If you cannot, then I guess it's way harder than 5.8 (? or you just stick a cam into the crack higher up and grab its sling ?) Jul 27, 2012
PeterW Whitmore
Dryden, NY
 
[Hide Comment] I'd say the roof variation goes at a pumpy 9+ Jun 10, 2013
Benjamin Brooke
San Pedro, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] To my understanding....The variation to Geronimo just makes an exposed move right into the right hand crack once above the roof and goes at 5.9. The route Drifter is an R rated(because the face below) route that pulls into that same crack but through the roof from below. This thread is a bit confusing as to which move we are taking about. Jun 21, 2013
Dom R
Estes Park, CO
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] The 5.9 variation is the way to do this. Like Nick said, it's really just one move. I have larger hands and found it to be a thin hands pull, but you can chock your first knuckle in there up high and it's so good. I find this easier than other 9's in the park. If you use the small foot on the right side of the roof (the flake-ish one) my follower broke it off today on accident. I took a second lap up it to see how it felt without it and I didn't notice too much of a difference. Apr 9, 2016