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Routes in West Buttress

Great Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress Eliminate T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
White Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0 R
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches
FA: C. Kirkus, G. Macphee - 1930
Page Views: 53 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 10, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Kirkus' breakthrough was the third route put up on Cloggy, but no siege tactics were used here, like Pigott's or Longland's, just a couple of blokes going for it, very much in the Kirkus style. He had to contend with, not only difficult rock climbing, but route finding, and vegetation challenges! Two ropes had to be tied together for the first pitch as no stances were available for 120 feet.

1. 5.8 - Above the weakness there's a small slab with a roof above it, get onto the slab then traverse down and left (crux) to reach a long groove leading upwards, climb this to a big ledge.

2. 5.6 - Climb up a rib on the right for 40 feet then go right to a corner below an overhang, then head up right on easy ground to a belay at the foot of a Forty Foot Corner.

3. 5.7 - Climb the Forty Foot Corner, which will be the crux if it is wet.

4. A long pitch up left and diagonally across the slab.

5. Gain the left edge of the slab and in a great position head to the top, another long pitch.

Location

Start about 50 yards up Western Terrace at an obvious weakness by a small pillar.

Descent is down the Eastern Terrace.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Brian Tinsen
  5.8
Brian Tinsen  
  5.8
Epic'd it. Left it way too late to start the climb. I did the 40ft corner. SOGGY and unprotected. Climbed to summit by moonlight, and back to start of climb to retrieve pack. in rock shoes! With one headlamp... Jun 30, 2015