Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Tina and Dan Godshall
Page Views: 1,413 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dan 60D5H411 on Mar 9, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Scramble up to a bolt on the right and start trending left towards the midway ledge. Trust your feet or crank hard over the bulge to gain the upper crack. Afterwards the occasional stem or jam on steep rock will deposit you at the chain anchors on top.

Location

This is the first bolted route to the left of Power Broker. Follow sidepulls and flakes to a seam that splits the steeper headwall.

Protection

6 bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
 
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
 
IMO the crux section isn't bolted very well. Unless you're very tall and can clip the 5th bolt from the ledge, it's a pumpy clip in the middle of the hard stuff.
Personally I think the 4th bolt should be removed and the 5th bolt moved down about 18 inches. Despite that, I enjoyed this route very much, too bad it's not taller. Apr 12, 2010
Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10d
Dan 60D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10d
Thanks for the comment, Doug. We went back out and did the route a couple more times. In the end, we agreed that the crux bolt was too low, so we removed it and placed it 8-10 inches higher. We also moved the following bolt 10 inches higher. It is now a good clip from secure holds and two decent edges for your feet. Hope it helps and glad you had fun on the climb! Apr 26, 2010
Nate Reno
Highlands Ranch, CO
Nate Reno   Highlands Ranch, CO
Ridiculously secure hand/finger jam at the crux.

Bolting is good, 1st one is a ways off to the right, but it didn't look like there was good rock to the left of it to place one. Jan 28, 2018