Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: 1986 Jim Waugh, Frank Valendo
Page Views: 334 total · 3/month
Shared By: bgarrett on Mar 8, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

Excellent climb! Exciting to lead; I thought it was a bit runout on the mid and upper part of the route, and ALL of 5.9 (10A?). As with Wailing Banshee, a stick clip would be nice for the first bolt, though at least the landing is good. Start just left of the Bronc, and make a difficult, heady move to clip the first bolt. Then follow the bolts up for some thrilling and great climbing. About 80 feet up, step slightly right and climb an obvious 20 foot 5.7/8 crack to the top. Look out for loose rock at the top of the crack. Step left to a large ledgy area and find two old bolts for the belay.

Location

Start just left of the Bronc. First bolt is about 12 feet up. Single rope rappel down Wailing Banshee.

Protection

4 or 5 good bolts and a couple pieces for the crack (stoppers to #2 BD cam).

Photos

- No Photos -
Hmm, this one felt easier than Bronco Billy. Good holds from top to bottom. Mar 20, 2018