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Routes in Wild Horse Wall

Bronc, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Even Cowgirls Get the Blues T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Mustang Sally T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wailing Banshee T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: 1986 Marshall Good
Page Views: 264 total, 3/month
Shared By: bgarrett on Mar 8, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

I was too scared to lead this route, so we lowered down from the top and climbed it(we used a solid pinch about 30 feet back from the top). Great climbing!, though I probably would not lead it. Second route to the left of the Bronc. About 30 feet left of Bronc. Look for an old bolt about 15-20 feet or so off the ground. Climb good dark rock up to the bolt (5.8R), then more good 5.8R climbing to second bolt. I climbed up above second bolt about 20 feet (more 5.8R), then moved left to a lower angled area with obvious thin flake/crack. Follow these up and surmount a bulge just below a large, yellowish "bear grass" type plant. I found this to be very difficult (10c?) with decent gear possible a few feet below(my partner said he found a way to do the move that felt about 8+). I thought this would be scary on the lead. Then easy fifth class climbing up a slab to an easy chimney finish.

Location

single rope rappel down Wailing Banshee.

Protection

thin nuts and cams(up to 1 inch)

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