Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft|
|FA:||1986 Marshall Good|
|Page Views:||264 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||bgarrett on Mar 8, 2010|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
DescriptionI was too scared to lead this route, so we lowered down from the top and climbed it(we used a solid pinch about 30 feet back from the top). Great climbing!, though I probably would not lead it. Second route to the left of the Bronc. About 30 feet left of Bronc. Look for an old bolt about 15-20 feet or so off the ground. Climb good dark rock up to the bolt (5.8R), then more good 5.8R climbing to second bolt. I climbed up above second bolt about 20 feet (more 5.8R), then moved left to a lower angled area with obvious thin flake/crack. Follow these up and surmount a bulge just below a large, yellowish "bear grass" type plant. I found this to be very difficult (10c?) with decent gear possible a few feet below(my partner said he found a way to do the move that felt about 8+). I thought this would be scary on the lead. Then easy fifth class climbing up a slab to an easy chimney finish.
- No Photos -