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Routes in The Far Side

18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
5.8 TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
At Last S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Atlas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Atlas Shrugged S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Bushy Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cereal Killer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chief, The S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Death to the Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Far Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Far Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Feelin' Your Oats T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Forrester's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Initiation Rite T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jardinero S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Koka T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kola S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Livin' on a Prayer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mystery Hole S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Near Side Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
New Tradition S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Spice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Old Tradition T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pile, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planet of the Grapes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Rite of Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Saviour Heart T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Separation Anxiety S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shute-Mills Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Something Good S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step To The Left T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Synchronicity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tradfest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Party S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jerry Dodrill, Chris Summit, March 2010
Page Views: 1,124 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jerry Dodrill on Mar 7, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on the protruding arete in the gully between "Death to the Right" and "Feelin' Your Oats." 4th class up the initial short face to a big ledge. Climb blocks for a couple moves to the first bolt. Commit to the pocketed arete and take it to the top of the cliff (bottom edge of The Chief formation). Much of the route can be chimneyed to the right at an easier grade, ~5.9.

Location

The more you stay on the arete, the more classic and challenging it is.

Protection

4 bolts to anchor on ledge. Offers easy access to The Chief and upper cliff areas. If you are at the Chief this route offers a very straightforward rappel down to the lower tier base (easier than hiking around).

Photos

crimsonraen
  5.10a PG13
crimsonraen  
  5.10a PG13
So.. Apparently, somebody cut down the pine tree on the ledge. I was pretty sad to see it gone, since it was pretty iconic to the route. It also added some type 2 fun, and good stories. Bummer. May 13, 2017
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
 
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
 
The sharp tree had a haircut recently. Should be good for a while. Jan 20, 2017
Ari G
  5.9 PG13
Ari G  
  5.9 PG13
Fun route after the first bolt... but getting there requires either sliding alongside an extremely sharp and spikey tree (ugh) or some fairly committing moves right and above the tree. Way more fun on toprope (easier to avoid the tree)... And careful to dodge the tree on your way down! Oct 23, 2015
Yeah, the lower section is hard 10 for sure. ended up stemming it.

It could use a little more cleaning on the right side of the arete.

Instead of 4th classing the bottom, I climbed the blocky rocks that provided some fun boulder moves (vo), then traversed above and next to the small conifer to the chimney/arete.

perfect rating for the far side though, back to sandbags, right outdooreric? :) Jul 27, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.10a
Floyd Hayes  
  5.10a
After clipping the first bolt by climbing the chimney to the right, I downclimbed and tried leading the arete from the base of the arete and thought it was much harder than 5.10a. I found myself instinctively sticking a foot out on the rock wall to the left and, when I got to the first bolt, stepping onto a ledge on the rock wall on the right to rest. Now that I have reread the description, I agree it is 5.10a after reaching the first bolt by climbing the chimney to the right of it. My partner top-roped the arete from the base without using the rocks on either side, and thought it was hard 5.10 or 5.11. Jul 12, 2010