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Shelter From the Storm
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
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Routes in Pontatoc Ridge
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KR Goes to Valhalla T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Spanish Offwidth, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Shelter From the Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Signals T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Void of Form S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Karl Rickson, Dan Foster, Dennis Cozzetti 1997 |
| Page Views: | 1,762 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | JMayhew on Mar 7, 2010 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Restrictions January 1 - April 30
Details
Special Closure Order #03-05-05-18-002 (found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO… ) prohibits travel more than 400' off of established trails due to Bighorn Sheep lambing season.
Description
For the original route description consult Bob Kerry's Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Az , also online at www.climbaz.com
Don't follow original rappel description!
We used double 60m's combining pitches and climbing others a bit more directly.
Still lots of loose rock that is fairly easy to avoid--take a helmet!
1.Climb huge left-facing corner for about 180 to small ledge. (5.7)
2.Finish up corner, stepping right to ledge. Diagonal right and wander up easiest path to giant ledge. (5.6) (We climbed a 5.9 var. heading straight up from the ledge at the top of the corner through a small overhang.)
3.Walk all the way to left end of ledge and access left-diagonalling ramp that is down and left of the main mine. 4th class ramp to its end and belay. (Originally accessed by a short 5.7 pitch up a rotten, broken corner.)
From here it is highly suggested to finish on KR Goes to Valhalla, OR:
4.Climb up, then diagonal left through black rock bands and belay just above dead tree and rotten corner. (5.7)
5.Diagonal right to base of corner with several trees. Uncomfortable squeeze through trees up corner, then belay to the right on another big ledge covered with all types of cactus. (5.7)
6.Shift belay to base of short clean chimney/corner in middle of ledge. Climb corner to top, belaying from 2 bolts. (5.7)
Don't follow original rappel description!
We used double 60m's combining pitches and climbing others a bit more directly.
Still lots of loose rock that is fairly easy to avoid--take a helmet!
1.Climb huge left-facing corner for about 180 to small ledge. (5.7)
2.Finish up corner, stepping right to ledge. Diagonal right and wander up easiest path to giant ledge. (5.6) (We climbed a 5.9 var. heading straight up from the ledge at the top of the corner through a small overhang.)
3.Walk all the way to left end of ledge and access left-diagonalling ramp that is down and left of the main mine. 4th class ramp to its end and belay. (Originally accessed by a short 5.7 pitch up a rotten, broken corner.)
From here it is highly suggested to finish on KR Goes to Valhalla, OR:
4.Climb up, then diagonal left through black rock bands and belay just above dead tree and rotten corner. (5.7)
5.Diagonal right to base of corner with several trees. Uncomfortable squeeze through trees up corner, then belay to the right on another big ledge covered with all types of cactus. (5.7)
6.Shift belay to base of short clean chimney/corner in middle of ledge. Climb corner to top, belaying from 2 bolts. (5.7)
Location
Descent: 2 options:
A: 1. Half-rope rap from 2 bolts at top of last pitch to last belay ledge. Stay on rope as you walk to edge, looking for two bolts just over next lip. These are just above the triangular capped roof** seen from below. [This anchor is 30' (climber's) left of the last bolt on pitch 5 of KR Goes to Valhalla.]
2.Rap 180 to ledge right in front of mine.
3.Walk almost all the way back to top of lower section of climb. Just past a large tree are several large boulders, one of which has a two bolt rap anchor. These are just above the orange corner** seen from below, which is pitch 3 of KR Goes to Valhalla. Rap 180 to a sloping ledge with 2 bolts.
4.Rap 160 to the ground.
B: If you've left nothing at the base, hike down the Pontatoc Ridge trail all the way to the road.
A: 1. Half-rope rap from 2 bolts at top of last pitch to last belay ledge. Stay on rope as you walk to edge, looking for two bolts just over next lip. These are just above the triangular capped roof** seen from below. [This anchor is 30' (climber's) left of the last bolt on pitch 5 of KR Goes to Valhalla.]
2.Rap 180 to ledge right in front of mine.
3.Walk almost all the way back to top of lower section of climb. Just past a large tree are several large boulders, one of which has a two bolt rap anchor. These are just above the orange corner** seen from below, which is pitch 3 of KR Goes to Valhalla. Rap 180 to a sloping ledge with 2 bolts.
4.Rap 160 to the ground.
B: If you've left nothing at the base, hike down the Pontatoc Ridge trail all the way to the road.
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