Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Hong?
Page Views: 1,387 total · 13/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Mar 7, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A very long finger and tight hands splitter through a roof. Punch through a steep, bouldery finger start (crux 1). The hanging flake (at 30') seems very solid for jamming and pro. Tight hands and hands lead to a first anchor. 5.11. Tackle a bulge through .75 camalots (crux 2). Get a rest in the chimney. Then swing out a stacking splitter (.75-.5 camalots, crux 3) to a daunting but mellow move over a block(.4 protects). Finish by mantling the ledge (#2 protects).

Location

Found not far to the right of where the trail hits the wall. Old plaque at the start.

Protection

Camalots: .3 to 2. Many .5 to 1. Save a few .5-.75 for the top slitter after the roofs.

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Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Rad route! What's the story with the lower anchor? Originally done in 2 pitches? Seems unnecessary and if you stop there you miss the best climbing!

If you're not up to leading this you can easily set a top rope by climbing the first pitch of Low Spark and then walking ten feet across the fat ledge to the upper anchor of Sparkling Spurs. Nov 3, 2015
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
 
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
 
Lowering with an 80m rope just barely makes it back to the start Apr 20, 2017