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Routes in 8 - Kat Pinnacle

Northwest Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mark Powell & Don Wilson - December, 1956
Page Views: 777 total, 8/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Mar 7, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Although the summit had been reached via Tyrolean traverse on November 10th 1940 by DeWitt Allen, Torcom Bedayan, and Robin Hansen, Kat Pinnacle was first climbed from the ground up via the Northwest Corner.

Pitch 1) Climb broken cracks to a good stance below a semi rotten aid crack. 5.7
Pitch 2) Ascend the aid crack mostly on fixed gear and belay from a tree. 5.7 C2+
Pitch 3) Move the belay around the summit cap to the right. Climb a short chimney to the top. 5.7

Ratings are old school.

Location

From the notch, scramble down until you reach the obvious cracks of pitch one.

Protection

Single set to #4 camalot. Include small nuts for the aid.

Photos

Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
I think the whole thing has now gone free? There are several fat new bolts on the second pitch which look like they were installed to protect a free variation on the arete. These bolts can be clipped from the aid crack as well, and between those and all the fixed pins I think the second pitch is probably only C1+ now, but I didn't lead it.

There's also a handful of new sport climbs that have gone up on Kat Pinnacle and the short cliff on the other side of the notch. They look pretty fun if you can crank 5.12-5.13. Dec 29, 2012