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Routes in El Dorado

Black Gold S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Brown Smoothies TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ghost Upstairs, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kindergeist T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nuggets S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Olas Negras S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Poltergeist TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooze T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,192 total, 13/month
Shared By: John Knight on Mar 7, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This 3 bolt route is probably the best route at Cabrillo. Great views, great exposure, good length (about 70') and mostly clean rock. For many, the crux may be getting up to clip the first bolt. To clip the first bolt, step up high on the ramp (left of the climb) then do a little traverse right on a small ledge to get to the bolt. Tall people may find it easy to clip while shorter people may find it a serious runout. The climb is also a bit runout (but easy) between bolts 2 and 3.


There are two bolted climbs on the El Dorado formation. This climb is the one on the right. There's an anchor with rap rings at the top for descending. All bolts were replaced a few years ago and in good condition.


Bring 3 draws plus a couple long slings for the anchor.


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Bryan Carroll
Los Osos, CA
Bryan Carroll   Los Osos, CA
Great route, a must-lead if in the area. The crux is well protected and if any apprehensions are present during the runout between bolt 2 and 3, you can bail right to substantially easier ground. Nov 29, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.8+ R
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8+ R
As a precaution I placed a cam in the crack on the right in the start. Didn't need it! Oct 17, 2011
A great route indeed, and considering the area it's arguably a classic, but it's not "a serious runout" no matter one's height. Mar 12, 2010