Type: Trad, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Coyne, Reynolds
Page Views: 3,256 total · 27/month
Shared By: Josh Gross on Mar 5, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This desert testpiece can easily be considered the "Astroman" of the area. The route demands crack climbing from tips to offwidth, roofs, delicate face climbing and bolted steep slab. The Navajo sandstone gets better the higher you climb. The route contains 3 cruxes, although you could consider the 4th pitch the overall crux. Every belay is from two bolts on a good ledge.

Pitch 1: Climb the obvious left facing corner. Clip the random drilled angle out left of the start of the corner to keep your rope out of potential seasonal poison ivy. When you get to the bush just before the anchor, traverse low to the anchor. 170 feet, 5.10

Pitch 2: Traverse directly left clipping thre bolts. 120 feet (no elevation gain) 5.4

Pitch 3: Sport climb up and right following 9 bolts. 60 feet, 5.10

Pitch 4: The nutting pitch. Enter and climb the long left facing dihedral. Protect with nuts, offset and regular and small cams. 100 feet, 5.11a

Pitch 5: Continue up the corner as it pulls the first roof and into the wide crack. Eventually slither into the chimney and belay in a deep alcove. 60 feet, 5.10+

Pitch 6: Begin climbing in the very back of the alcove into the bombay chimney and out the roof. Walk you cams to the lip to minimize drag. Continue up the corner to a small stance belay. 100 feet. 5.11a

Pitch 7: Continue up the clean varnihsed corner to another deep alcove. 70 feet, 5.10

Pitch 8: Begin deep in the back of the alcove, up into the bombay. Walk you cams to the lip with you again and pull the roof and continue to the anchors at the rim. 30 feet, 5.11c

Descent: Rap the route, bring new cord as anchors get intense UV exposure

1: Rim to top of p7, 1 rope
2: Top of 7, to top of p4, 2 60s. Traverse 10 feet left to pull rope away from crack.
3: Top of 4 to top of p2, 2 60s
4: Top of 2 to ground, 2 60s

Location

Directly across the river from the Goose Island campground. Approach from the boat ramp on the North side of the river. The route is the obvious left facing dihedral from the ground to the rim.

Protection

Double set of cams from green alien to #3 camalot, 1 new 4, 5, 6 camalots. Healthy set of nuts includeing offsets. Extendable runners and quickdraws

Photos