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Routes in Northwest Slabs

Bolted Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cows are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Cows in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Doctor Cow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Paint it Sad T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ribeye Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sky Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squid Skid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stiffler's Mom T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turbo Pup T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Yellow Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T Moderson, Craig Leubben, 1989
Page Views: 554 total, 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 3, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

A decent climb that mixes up nice edging with some fairly intimidating friction moves. Begin at the right side of a flake leaning against the wall directly beneath the hanging "ribeye flake" in the middle of the NW Slab.

P1 - Climb the right-facing corner and face to a belay at a juniper bush directly beneath the hanging Ribeye Flake. Good gear and easy climbing. 5.6, 80 feet.

P2 - The meat. Bite into a leftward traverse on significant edges, heading up through broken, slabby terrain toward a line of three bolts. Friction up the bolt line (5.8, intimidating) to reach lower-angle, more well-featured rock and a left-trending finger crack that deposits you on Cow Pie Ledge. 5.8, 120 feet.

Location

3rd class about 100 feet left of the base cairn and Sky Crack until you're directly beneath a dark, water-stained face and a large, hanging flake. Ribeye climbs an easy corner to a stance beneath the hanging flake, and then traverses left about 20 feet to follow a line of bolts through low-angle, friction-intensive terrain.

Protection

Three well-spaced bolts protect the crux of this climb. It wouldn't be at all unreasonable to simply solo the first pitch and forego building a belay at the juniper bush; the climbing is easier than the guidebook 5.6 up to this point. Regardless, QDs and a set of nuts will get you up this climb in style; bring some cams if you're so inclined.

Photos

Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
  5.8+
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
  5.8+
A really enjoyable climb! 3 bolts for 200 feet of climbing keeps it spicy. Sep 4, 2010