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Routes in Entrance Boulders

603 Special V0 4
Billie Jean V0- 4-
Bobby's Arete V7- 7A+
Bobby's Problem V7 7A+
Caver's Problem V5 6C
Cavers Direct V8+ 7B+
Dirty Diana V0- 4-
Doppelganger V2+ 5+
Entrance Arete V1+ 5
Mr. Crawley V0- 4-
Offset Corner V0 4
Opilio V1+ 5
Razor Blade Romance V3- 6A
Tallboy V2 5+
Tragic Inspiration V1 5
Trailside Crack V1 5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 13 ft
FA: Matt wallace?
Page Views: 368 total, 4/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Mar 3, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This route may be a new route, I have never seen any chalk or sign of climbing on it. If I am incorrect or you have any other information please let me know.

Sit start on the far left of the wall. The hold you start on always has chalk on it and has a loose piece of rock in it that wiggles but will not come out. Start here with your foot on the dagger like foot, stand up and grab the sharp crimp (the origins of the name). Once established here move your feet and go to the crimp up and right, then move your feet if you need to and go to the good top out. Once having your hands over the lip traverse right until you can rock over and top out.

Location

In the Entrance Boulders this shares a wall with Cavers Problem but starts on the far left side of the wall on the weird jug that always has chalk on it.

Protection

Pads are a must because of the sharp rocks below, a spotter is good to.

Photos

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Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V2-3
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V2-3
I nearly killed myself on this today when the left hand crimp broke and sent me flying towards the pointy rock below, which I did not have padded. Luckily, I just missed it with my head.

Anyhow, there is a small sidepull left, below where the crimp was. I climbed it on my next try and it felt similar in difficulty. I was able to go left hand to the sidepull and then use a subtle right heel hook to go all the way to the lip with my right hand.

Fun problem! Jul 31, 2014