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Routes in Stableboy Rock and Vicinity

Chow, Chow, Chow V4 6B
Dead Legends V5 6C
French Tickler, The V9 7C PG13
Gravy Train Tryout V5 6C
Mr Serious V8 7B
That Hi-Pro Glow S V6 7A
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Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Marc Le Menestrel
Page Views: 1,168 total · 11/month
Shared By: tcamillieri on Mar 1, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: East Spur is accessed by Guided Tour Only Details
Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This route is the obvious line in the center of Stable Rock. Begins on the large sloping jugs at head height and climbs straight up through small crimps and sloping gastons to a committing lunge at the finish.

Beta: Begin on the sloping jugs and take the first 1/2 pad crimp with your right hand. Heel up on the sloping jugs and reach up left hand to a good but slightly sharp gaston. Stand up and get a horrid right hand crimp, then back step the 1/2 pad crimp with your right foot and lunge for a decent crimp out and right from your right hand (crux). Left foot goes on a good smear onto up your left hand (coolest move ever) and lock off to the first gaston sloper. Move your feet out left to get the second right hand gaston sloper. Left foot up to the decent crimp and lunge for the sloping jug at the top out. Mega-classic. My favorite line in Hueco.

Location

This route is in the center of Stable Rock and is through a small passageway on your right as you approach the Gunks.

Protection

3 pads spotters. There is a large hole that drops off 15 feet at the starting holds although it is HIGHLY UNLIKELY that the climber will fall down there caution should be taken.

Photos

Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
Actually Marc Le Menestrel put this up c. 1993 or 1994 as I recall. That is where the name came from. Dec 27, 2010

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