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Julio and Me

V9 PG13, Boulder, 9 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
Texas > Hueco Tanks > East Mountain > The Dark Heart
Access Issue: East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only Details
Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This problem starts on the shared underclings of Le Chnickel but moves right traversing a ways until you get to an interesting lip encounter that has multiple solutions.

Beta: (if I can remember right). Start matched on the underclings and get a funky right kneebar. Reach out left hand to a crimp and then get a right foot heel/toe cam. Cross to the pinch left hand and drop your right hand down to a sloper that will allow you to readjust your left hand to change the thumb-catch on the pinch. Step left foot on the crimp you just used for your right hand and surge out to the arete. Swing feet over. From here there are multiple sequences that involve (1) doing a high tension move to allow you to match your left hand to the arete and reach up to the jug, (2) bumping blindly all the way to the jug (that's what I did) or potentially even (3) going feet first and toehooking the jug blindly and then matching it to top out. 3 stars for cool holds, unique movement and beta and decent landing, -1 star for an indirect line and PG-13 for the potential landing in the yucca doing the redpoint crux.

Location

From the main trail that leads up to the Dark Heart, after passing Ultramega take the trail up and left staying close to the cliffside. There is a small passage that you go through and take your immediate right and you'll see the yucca plant of which I speak.

Protection

Two pads. A spotter to keep you off the yucca.