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Crime and Punishment

5.10a, Sport, 85 ft,  Avg: 2.7 from 47 votes
FA: T. Goss, J, Howard
Utah > Saint George > Utah Hills > Woodbury Rd Crags > Black & Tan
Access Issue: In critical habitat area for the Desert Tortoise Details

Description

Fun route that has good variety of angles from slabbing to slightly overhanging to bulging. Awesome holds.

Location

Start the same as Glutton for Punishment: around the bottom center of the wide slab to the left of the obvious small rock tower with a rounded ridge above it.

After the second bolt you'll reach a gentle ramp. Where Glutton goes right to the left-facing, inside corner which forms the boundary between the upper slab and the rounded ridge, instead go left.

After three more bolts the route Criminal Mischief trends right up the slab to its own anchor above. Crime and Punishment bears left up over steep bulge, then more gently up and left to the anchor.

Protection

9 bolts, maybe more

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crime and Punishment.
[Hide Photo] Crime and Punishment.
Amber's got 'er in the bag on Crime and Punishment
[Hide Photo] Amber's got 'er in the bag on Crime and Punishment
Slabbin' up the start to Crime and Punishment.  Amber on lead.
[Hide Photo] Slabbin' up the start to Crime and Punishment. Amber on lead.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nathan Marsh
st. george utah
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] like others have said, a lot of new bolts/lines over here which makes the guide book confusing. Make sure you count bolts and make sure you are turning up the right route or you could end up on a 5.12 instead of a 10a. Mar 12, 2012
boltclippinfool
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Fun climb, clip the 2nd bolt of Glutton for Punishment and head left through a bulge with some cool pockets.

There's also another line of bolts between Crime and Punishment and Glutton for Punishment - Clip the 6th bolt of Glutton for Punishment and head up the blocky face to the left. I seem to remember 5 bolts to rap rings, 5.10-. Def. worth doing. May 15, 2013
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, DE
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I don't agree with boltclippinfool on how this route runs. I do, however, agree with most of the rest of what he says. Here's my route description.

Start on Glutton for Punishment for the first two bolts. Runout the rest of the even easier slab (5.3) to the bolt line on the left. Follow this straight up through a bulge and great pockets to a crimpy and balancey crux at the anchor where the weight of the rope makes the moves feel more difficult than they are. 5.9 tops and something like 8 bolts to rap rings. Mar 3, 2014
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.9
[Hide Comment] the two or three bolt variation left at the top makes which bolts to clip confusing! Heading to the right anchors seemed better. May 22, 2015
Laura Bauer
Portland, OR
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Really fun. I had to split left once, but I didn't notice a second divergence. It was really straight forward - just follow the bolts. Oct 25, 2016
[Hide Comment] Variation: Start instead up the dark-painted bolt line 10-15 feet left of the Glutton for Punishment / Crime and Punishment tan-painted bolt line. Continue following this bolt line across the gentle ramp and above until the orange face gets steeper with lack of positive holds. Then leave that bolt line and diagonal right with big pockets to join the main tan-painted bolt line for Crime and Punishment. (not more difficult, perhaps a bit more fun). Nov 9, 2017