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Smash the Poser

5.12a, Sport, 35 ft (11 m),  Avg: 3 from 23 votes
FA: Jeff Pedersen
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Super Bowl Wall

Description

Short, but very steep.

At bolt three is a very squirrelly and awkward crux—awkward the way I did it at least. Third to fourth bolt is a big, very fun reach and then the route trends left to chains.

You are pretty much hanging on your arms the whole way. Your hands will get abused on this route with no rests.

Go get 'em.

Location

The route is the first line right of Simple Simon. It ends on the same anchors.

If you're counting bolted lines from the left, this is the ninth line from the left (starting at Hamster Forever and counting JP's Variation and Back in the Saddle as two separate lines).

Protection

6+2. Stick clip the first bolt for safety.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wonderful route, big moves. Crux for me was a fun heal-hook/dyno. Holds are all pretty great
[Hide Photo] Wonderful route, big moves. Crux for me was a fun heal-hook/dyno. Holds are all pretty great

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Would give it four stars but it is so short! Fantastic overhung problem, with a mighty pinch to get into the opening jugs. First crux comes almost immediately as you try to figure out how to use the chalked up crappy roof crimps (Hint: don't use them, look WAAAAAY Left for a crimp and a 3 finger pocket/jug/sloper). Once you get up to the second jug/ledge system a fun dyno (or if your ape index is big you can do a dynamic move that isn't quite a dyno...the dyno is way more fun though). Hit the dyno and do some interesting lie-back moves with some fun heel hooks to the chains. I wish this route kept on going! Jul 7, 2015