Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Jeff Pedersen
Page Views: 972 total · 9/month
Shared By: KipHenrie on Feb 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Short, but very steep.

At bolt three is a very squirrelly and awkward crux—awkward the way I did it at least. Third to fourth bolt is a big, very fun reach and then the route trends left to chains.

You are pretty much hanging on your arms the whole way. Your hands will get abused on this route with no rests.

Go get 'em.

Location

The route is the first line right of Simple Simon. It ends on the same anchors.

If you're counting bolted lines from the left, this is the ninth line from the left (starting at Hamster Forever and counting JP's Variation and Back in the Saddle as two separate lines).

Protection

6+2. Stick clip the first bolt for safety.

Photos

Would give it four stars but it is so short! Fantastic overhung problem, with a mighty pinch to get into the opening jugs. First crux comes almost immediately as you try to figure out how to use the chalked up crappy roof crimps (Hint: don't use them, look WAAAAAY Left for a crimp and a 3 finger pocket/jug/sloper). Once you get up to the second jug/ledge system a fun dyno (or if your ape index is big you can do a dynamic move that isn't quite a dyno...the dyno is way more fun though). Hit the dyno and do some interesting lie-back moves with some fun heel hooks to the chains. I wish this route kept on going! Jul 7, 2015