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Aurora Borealis
5.11d,
Sport, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
FA: Lee Hansche 2/22/10
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Yellowknife Buttress
Description
The crux is fingery and technical on the feet. The line is asthetic and climbs well. I will admit the rock quality isn't tops (this is the case with most routes up here) but i pulled off most of the chossy stuff and its good to go (belayers just be aware) .
So climb the slab past the first 2 bolts to the 3rd bolt on the first steep section. Stay left to find the good rock and make a few moves to good stance under the final head wall. Using left facing flakes and fun moves clip a few more bolts before the good holds run out at a crimpy crux. Foot work is key as you work the crimps and make a hard clip. After the last clip punch it on better holds to the top. The run to the chains might be spooky but it's safe, just don't pull up a ton of rope to clip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwwuSo0QnnU
Location
Up Yellow Knife's right gully to the right of Cow Patty(5.10a) for a nice slightly over hanging face above a slab. This route climbs the slab and up the left side of the steep face about 15 feet right of Cow Patty.
Protection
7 bolts to ring bolt anchor.
[Hide Photo] closer shot of jakob on the steeper upper section of the route...
[Hide Photo] Jakob working out the moves up on the crux...
Allenstown, NH... and a van…