Workin' on Leavin' the Livin'
WI4+ M5 R
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Trevor Bowman and Bridger Konkel 2/21/10|
|Page Views:||691 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Trevor Bowman on Feb 22, 2010|
DescriptionEasily the canyon's most spectacular line, but also it's most rarely formed in my experience....I've climbed in the canyon off an on for six seasons and never seen a hint of ice on this thing other than in the 09/10 season; it seems that the necessary combination of high groundwater from a wet fall and the extended cold and snow throughout the winter combined to give it life. Although this is just my hypothesis, as there is no major drainage above the climb, and it managed to withstand months of sun and above freezing temps to hang in there. It is crucial to hit this is cold conditions, as it's south-facing and once it warms up it starts de-laminating and shedding ice quickly! A true anomaly, it's unfortunate it's so fickle but I guess that adds to the allure.
Found between the Danglers and Ponderosa Falls, this line drips down the tallest section of granite wall in the Central Gorge; when in, it is very obvious from Highway 14 across the gorge.
Named after an early Modest Mouse track.
P1-The cherry pitch! A 10' step with a shell of thin ice puts you on the ledge below the long pillar. By hugging the left side of the pillar, you can get several good stance rests and the occasional good rock gear. The ice should be juicy and plastic, but can quickly lose it's bonding with the rock and become sun-leached in warmer conditions. After the final steep step, roll over onto a nice belay ledge with a sheltered overhang. Good screw belay. WI 4+ 100'
P2-The spice pitch! There may be several options for this pitch depending on conditions. Traverse right on the narrow ledge 40' or so, getting some marginal rock gear in. Yard up a poorly protected 20' rock step on big edges (best barehanded) to a shelf. Find a couple more dubious rock placements and launch up the 20' thin ice smear (poorly bonded and unprotected in the conditions of the FA) to the final big ledge system, breath a sigh of relief (or dry heave like I did) and finish up the last 20' step of good ice to the top boulder belay. Unreliable pro, questionably bonded ice, and real-deal fall potential make this a mentally taxing lead. You could avoid this pitch entirely by continuing another 40' right on the low ledge and into a low-angle rock gully. WI 4, M5 R 80'