Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Upper Slab and Upper Wall

Ancient Via Ferrata T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
Escape Hatch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Faust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gargoyle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moraviana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Off-Width Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Upper Slab Routes T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,781 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jonathan Steitzer on Feb 22, 2010
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


18 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

A very moderate two pitch climb, with the crux being towards the top of the last pitch.

Moraviana starts to the right up the upper slab, and quickly enters a left facing corner. There's some vegetation in the crack which makes getting protection tricky. Easy moves past the corner lead to old rusted bolts for a belay.

The second pitch begins with a long scramble up fourth class terrain before you reach a nice vertical section, with some fun moves.

It's an easy climb, and easy to protect. The location is great late in the day, with a beautiful sunset.

I loved this climb, it's off the path enough that you get away from the mobs at the precipice and otter cliffs.

Location

South Bubble, start above the lower slab, on the right.

A climbers trail at the left of the top of the cliff allegedly exists, we scrabbled right through the brush and down some 5.4 stuff then traversed back on the cliff to the belay between the pitches to rap out.

Overlooks Jordan Pond

Protection

Basic trad rack.

Bolts provides an anchor for the end of the first pitch, the guidebook says another fixed anchor is at the end of pitch 2, but we couldn't find it.
beach
Portland, ME
 
beach   Portland, ME
 
building a belay right before the crux made me feel much better doing the moves off the slab... Oct 29, 2017
Don MacKenzie
Seattle, WA
 
Don MacKenzie   Seattle, WA
 
The crux for me was getting off the ledge to gain the final 30' section of crack. Everything before that was pretty easy.

Regarding the route description: the tricky-to-protect left-facing corner can be bypassed via a groove a few feet to the right. Sep 10, 2012
Barrett Stetson  
  5.7
P1 (from top of lower slabs up to railing) is probably only about 5.4. The 5.7 section is probably only the last 30 ft of P2. Takes plenty of pro where you needed it. There was a threaded rappel at the top when we were there. Jul 23, 2012