This problem climbs out the roof on the left-hand side of the Pound Crack boulder. Start sitting with some funky pockety holds and make a powerful throw to the sloping rail (the kicker to the left is off-route, apparently). Use ingenious footwork and a lot of body tension to traverse right on the sloping rail until you can make a desperate throw to a decent hold. Keep your feet on or you'll be laying on the large flat rock that's now just below you. Make a couple more powerful, but easier moves on good holds to come around the corner and onto the face. For full value, proceed up the dirty 5.11 on the arete on which you are now established and top out. A good problem to work on in the winter, when the low sun beams in and the friction is good. Would be a classic in my book but for the eliminate start and the butt-dragging nature of the last couple of hard moves.

If you are facing the Pound crack, turn left and follow the trail over the stone wall, then look right. Loomit is the climb in the roof that uses the obvious chalked sloping rail.

pads and a spot.