PRINT: Rock Climb Steelhead, Central Oregon

Steelhead

5.11, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Jeff Wenger, Jamie Wenger, 2/08
Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details

2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

If technical, delicate stemming is your bag, then this route's for you. A slight notch harder than Space Mission, Steelhead features a similar somewhat baffling stemming crux down low followed by sustained, but easier climbing above.

This route (like Space Mission) isn't ideal for top-roping as a climber falling off the low crux that's not getting power-belayed is likely to tickle the ground. Conversely, on lead, there is ample gear and the bottom could be easily french freed if you were unable to work out the moves. That being said, you have to know how to properly place small (tiny to some) gear.

Location

Locate the obvious gray scar at the base of twin cracks in between Gateway and Bushwhacker. (visible in either of those routes' photos)

Protection

Lots of thin cams. I used RPs, a red Ballnut, triples of green and red C3s, doubles up to 0.5 C4s and 1 0.75. This route takes stoppers better than most of the lines at Trout and the gear through the crux is plentiful and bomber.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR

While I haven't yet gotten on this route, it is getting a reputation for having tricky pro and grounder potential at the bottom of the route. Take care and suss out those moves if your not feeling up for it, several people have decked and been veeeeeery lucky to walk out. May 19, 2013

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

5.11

More specifically, two people have ripped gear and hit the ground. Both were basically okay. (which is surprising given the landing!) I can personally testify to having fallen from every possible point at the bottom 30' of this route and being totally fine. (Gear stayed put) Adventure-spoiling gear beta below:

An RP and ballnut inches apart go in before first not-easy move. A green c3 (or two or three-it's been awhile) after that and a blue tcu before the overlap. A medium wire above the lip perfectly protects the crux. All on the left crack. May 22, 2013