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Routes in Trollville (Duckshead)

Dreadlocks T M7+
Lunaglace WI3-4
Purple People Eaters T M7
Unknown Right WI4
Where Night Meets Light WI4
Type: Trad, Mixed, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 824 total, 9/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Feb 21, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Parking Details

Description

Strenuous and insecure. Make a couple funky moves to gain a ledge sets you up for the business. Weird hooks in the back of the OW gets you in position to lay the OW back bridging your tools across this 7" or 8" crack. Clip 2 pins while through the crux and then pull onto the small hanger on top if there (harder) or if your lucky there won't be any ice hanging which makes the top easier and it also means the entire OW won't be coated in ice.

Location

The large right facing dihedralwith an iced up OW in the back. To the right of the large free hanging pillar on Diaper Rash.

Protection

Small to mid size cams, maybe new pins, the existing ones are in terrible condition.

Photos

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nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
dreadlocks Feb 14, 2011
Chris Hillios
Newburyport, MA
Chris Hillios   Newburyport, MA
Any idea the name of the climb just right is? It has 2 bolts then straight up a widening crack with some straight in pick placements.
(I will also delete this comment on reply.) Feb 7, 2011