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Routes in Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks

A Side Crack V0- 4-
B Side Crack V1- 5-
Buffalo Creek Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buffalo Creek Spire South Face A0
Classic Arete V3-4 6A+
Fear of Slabs V0- 4-
One Last Fix T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun Express T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoke a Fatty T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Unknown V-easy 3
deGaulle's Nose aid route T C1+
deGaulle's Nose free route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Aid, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 549 total, 6/month
Shared By: Dave Kesonie on Feb 20, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The better of two aid routes on this little spire. The South Face is lichen-free, dead vertical, and the bolt studs are still okay.

Location

Start on the north side access crack which is a short two-move handcrack that lands you on the big ledge that skirts the whole spire. Walk/crawl to the west past the start of the original aid route which now goes free at 5.10a. Keep going counterclockwise around the spire to the South Face. You will need to climb a few moves up a wide crack to the top of a boulder. From the top of this large boulder at the base of the South Face, you can easily reach the first bolt.

Protection

The bolts are just studs - bring about 7 rivet hangers or small wired stoppers to clip them. There are bomber anchors on top.

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