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Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (c) Shipwreck Wall
> Shipwreck Wall - East Face
Fish N' Chips
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 56
votes
Routes in Shipwreck Wall - East Face
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Blue Light Special S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bolt From the Blue S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fish N' Chips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flab Happy TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Flight of the Patriot Scud Blaster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kentucky Ugly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Liquid Jade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Marooned S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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More Sandy than Kevin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mothers Milk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Purple Aces S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Riptide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rising Tides S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Skipper's Little Buddy, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stoney Surfer, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Walking While Intoxicated S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft |
| FA: | Ben Moon |
| Page Views: | 2,523 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | ferrells on Feb 20, 2010 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Even though the guidebook says this is a good route, I was skeptical. But the rock was clean, the moves were fun from the beginning, and the end was thrilling. Take a moment to look around while you are doing it - the position is fantastic. I ended up being really impressed.
I think this is one of the most fun 5.10's I've been on at Smith, and a great way to warm up for the fun elevens and 12's on the Shipwreck Wall.
I think this is one of the most fun 5.10's I've been on at Smith, and a great way to warm up for the fun elevens and 12's on the Shipwreck Wall.
Location
The upper Shipwreck Wall ends in a crumbling ampitheater. If you follow the rock from Shipwreck to the right, this is the first solid piece of stone you find. Look for a bolted seam/flake/crack with a subtle-looking overhang at the top.
As far as safety goes, keep an eye out for the last three bolts. There may not have been a way to bolt it better, but the bolting feels a bit off at the top. If you take some falls, you should be fine, but take care. It would be easy for someone unaccustomed to overhangs to wrap their leg around the rope, and some of the harder moves risk falls that would need to be deliberate (be aware of where you will land). Belayers should be solid.
If you have been leading for a while, don't let this dissuade you, I'm probably being overcautious.
As far as safety goes, keep an eye out for the last three bolts. There may not have been a way to bolt it better, but the bolting feels a bit off at the top. If you take some falls, you should be fine, but take care. It would be easy for someone unaccustomed to overhangs to wrap their leg around the rope, and some of the harder moves risk falls that would need to be deliberate (be aware of where you will land). Belayers should be solid.
If you have been leading for a while, don't let this dissuade you, I'm probably being overcautious.
Northern Nevada
Out of the Loop
Bend, Oregon
The trail at the upper end of shipwreck gulley does leave something to be desired... Seeing what the holds on some mid 10s look like by autumn I'm OK with this. Consider it our reward for enduring a bit of approach. Apr 22, 2015
Portland, OR
Chad Sep 9, 2015