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Routes in Shipwreck Wall - East Face

Blue Light Special S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt From the Blue S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish N' Chips S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flab Happy TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight of the Patriot Scud Blaster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kentucky Ugly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Liquid Jade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Marooned S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
More Sandy than Kevin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mothers Milk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Purple Aces S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Riptide S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rising Tides S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skipper's Little Buddy, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stoney Surfer, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Tsunami S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Walking While Intoxicated S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ben Moon
Page Views: 2,523 total · 25/month
Shared By: ferrells on Feb 20, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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56 Opinions

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Description

Even though the guidebook says this is a good route, I was skeptical. But the rock was clean, the moves were fun from the beginning, and the end was thrilling. Take a moment to look around while you are doing it - the position is fantastic. I ended up being really impressed.
I think this is one of the most fun 5.10's I've been on at Smith, and a great way to warm up for the fun elevens and 12's on the Shipwreck Wall.

Location

The upper Shipwreck Wall ends in a crumbling ampitheater. If you follow the rock from Shipwreck to the right, this is the first solid piece of stone you find. Look for a bolted seam/flake/crack with a subtle-looking overhang at the top.
As far as safety goes, keep an eye out for the last three bolts. There may not have been a way to bolt it better, but the bolting feels a bit off at the top. If you take some falls, you should be fine, but take care. It would be easy for someone unaccustomed to overhangs to wrap their leg around the rope, and some of the harder moves risk falls that would need to be deliberate (be aware of where you will land). Belayers should be solid.
If you have been leading for a while, don't let this dissuade you, I'm probably being overcautious.

Protection

bolts, roughly 10

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
It's been a while, but I remember this route being quite a treat. A great route on great rock and in a great location. Get thee up the gully. Jul 13, 2010
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
 
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
 
Psyched to see this one added to the data base, it's definitely worth the walk. May 14, 2011
Paul Trendler
Bend, Oregon
Paul Trendler   Bend, Oregon
First time up it was awesome! Second time I popped a few small feet off, but overall it's a really fun route. Feb 14, 2012
dmPete
  5.10c
dmPete  
  5.10c
Super fun! Only reason this isn't among the most popular 5.10s at Smith has got to be the location...but even that's great for the fantastic view at the top of the route and the absence of scummy, chalk-stained holds. Mar 31, 2015
Great climb that slowly & continuously goes from easy to overhanging as you go. Once the angle passes vertical, the race is on!

The trail at the upper end of shipwreck gulley does leave something to be desired... Seeing what the holds on some mid 10s look like by autumn I'm OK with this. Consider it our reward for enduring a bit of approach. Apr 22, 2015
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
As the description states, the finish is thrilling and the position is fantastic. Super refreshing whenever you get sick of smiths endless crimps and nubs. May 18, 2015
another Chad  
 
For good reason, this line would get non-stop traffic if it weren't at the top of a gully. Kind of like Butterknife ArĂȘte, great climb guarded by a bitch hike.

Chad Sep 9, 2015
Phildlm
 
Phildlm  
 
5.7 for the first couple of bolts. Then 5.10a-b with a 5.10c crux. Fortunately, good holds appear when you need them most. Right as your forearms are about to blow going for the anchors, you find a couple big "thank God" jugs. Given the exposure/location and fun moves, I think this is a severely under-rated route. Yes, it's a long hike up here, but fun route! May 30, 2016

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