Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ben Moon
Page Views: 3,867 total · 32/month
Shared By: ferrells on Feb 20, 2010
Admins: Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


106 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Even though the guidebook says this is a good route, I was skeptical. But the rock was clean, the moves were fun from the beginning, and the end was thrilling. Take a moment to look around while you are doing it - the position is fantastic. I ended up being really impressed.
I think this is one of the most fun 5.10's I've been on at Smith, and a great way to warm up for the fun elevens and 12's on the Shipwreck Wall.

Location

The upper Shipwreck Wall ends in a crumbling ampitheater. If you follow the rock from Shipwreck to the right, this is the first solid piece of stone you find. Look for a bolted seam/flake/crack with a subtle-looking overhang at the top.
As far as safety goes, keep an eye out for the last three bolts. There may not have been a way to bolt it better, but the bolting feels a bit off at the top. If you take some falls, you should be fine, but take care. It would be easy for someone unaccustomed to overhangs to wrap their leg around the rope, and some of the harder moves risk falls that would need to be deliberate (be aware of where you will land). Belayers should be solid.
If you have been leading for a while, don't let this dissuade you, I'm probably being overcautious.

Protection

bolts, roughly 10

Photos