Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Purgatory Wall

Font, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Philosophy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prince Of Liars S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Malcom Ball (UK), 1986
Page Views: 427 total, 4/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Feb 14, 2010 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1. Slabby and a tad gravelly and there's a 5.10c traverse left about halfway with a nasty runout.

P2. Head up then traverse to get above the overhanging wall to the right. The second pitch is about 5.8 and is totally classic involving exposed steep face climbing on those ubiquitous knobs. This pitch more than makes up for the nervy and less than perfect first pitch.

Location

Looking up there's a very steep section of this wall, start on the slab left of this, and on pitch two head up past the steepening then traverse right to get onto the less steep wall above it. See this .

Protection

Bolts, can't remember how many and probably not very new. Two bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Thanks Jeff. Dec 30, 2016
Malcolm Ball did the FA 1986 ground up Please add.' Dec 26, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Thanks for all the effort, Chad. May 4, 2016
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Well deserved I think. Feb 10, 2016