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Short Arm Inspection
5.11b/c,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
FA: Steve Goins and Truly Bracken 1992
Tennessee
> Tennessee Wall
> T-Wall East
Description
As the name implies this one will test your reach...numerous times. First one comes right at the start. Make long moves to gain a ledge with some broken rock. Follow a nice crack up to a big spacious ledge. Fun arete climbing leads to a sloping shelf below the steep headwall. Clip a pin and make long moves past horizontals, fighting the pump. Next more long moves lead past the roof and to the anchors.
Location
Located just left of No More Tiers.
Protection
Mostly smaller stuff. One fixed pin. Runners. Shares anchors with No More Tiers.
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Chattanooga, TN
Chattanooga, TN
Unless you’re cruising 11+, I would recommend breaking it into two pitches as the book advises. Rope drag wasn’t an issue for me necessarily, but my belayer couldn’t see me at the crux, which isn’t ideal.
Now some gear beta if anyone wants it: I backed up the ancient piton with a brass nut. The gear is mostly good and mostly obvious, but in the midst of the slab arete, keep an eye out for a #1 sized hole right on the arete. It’s easy to miss, and otherwise that fall onto the slab below would be painful. Personally, I would rate the difficulty and spice factor similar to the likes of Great White Fright, The Omen, and Search of the Source. It’s all reasonably safe ... if you've got your head on straight.
Bottom line: give it a shot! It’s a great route, and I look forward to returning for the RP. Dec 3, 2023