Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,074 total · 10/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Feb 14, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Fun, short route.

Clip the first bolt before really doing any climbing, and ooze your way up to the obvious round cobble below the second bolt (this is noticeably easier if you are taller). Make a balancy clip and crank through the powerful, core-intensive crux. A good shake-out at the final bolt allows you to recuperate before committing to the tricky slab moves that guard the anchor.

Location

The furthest uphill (bolted) climb on the East( right) face of Lyme Disease Rock. Right of the traversing "Unlucky in Love", 5.11b.

Protection

3 bolts, two-bolt anchor (shared with "Unlucky in Love")

Photos

Nick Andrew
  5.11b
Nick Andrew  
  5.11b
Short, but really fun climbing (especially past the undercling after the second bolt). Climb is rated .11b in the Bay Area Rock guidebook and I would agree with that rating. The last move kept my attention for sure, but it seemed adequately protected. Another fun route that makes this rock worth checking out! May 29, 2018