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Routes in Lyme Disease Rock

Bitch Goddess Left TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cosgrove Face S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lucky in Love S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pigs' Feat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ticks on my tree stem S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ticks ripped my flesh S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unlucky in Love S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vixen S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 990 total · 10/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Feb 14, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Fun, short route.

Clip the first bolt before really doing any climbing, and ooze your way up to the obvious round cobble below the second bolt (this is noticeably easier if you are taller). Make a balancy clip and crank through the powerful, core-intensive crux. A good shake-out at the final bolt allows you to recuperate before committing to the tricky slab moves that guard the anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

The furthest uphill (bolted) climb on the East( right) face of Lyme Disease Rock. Right of the traversing "Unlucky in Love", 5.11b.

Protection [Suggest Change]

3 bolts, two-bolt anchor (shared with "Unlucky in Love")


Nick Andrew
Nick Andrew  
Short, but really fun climbing (especially past the undercling after the second bolt). Climb is rated .11b in the Bay Area Rock guidebook and I would agree with that rating. The last move kept my attention for sure, but it seemed adequately protected. Another fun route that makes this rock worth checking out! May 29, 2018

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