All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 2 - Bear Canyon > Pharaoh
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Routes in Pharaoh
|'Phraid T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bladerunner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|By Cracky T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Crack-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Cripple Creek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Gashlycrumb Tinies T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Hell is for Heros T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Lost in the Alps T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|On Ramp T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Thrash and Dangle T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Time the Avenger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft|
|FA:||Jim Waugh, Brad Smith, Ray Ringle 1985 (1st pitch: Ringle, Steiger 1980)|
|Page Views:||119 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||John Steiger on Feb 13, 2010|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis was one the mid-80s Arizona testpieces before rap bolting became widely accepted. The route was originally led in two pitches, the second being the crux, the first a 5.11a warm-up. (EFR's guidebook shows it going in two pitches, but it was climbed as one pitch shortly after its first ascent). Jim Waugh, one of the state's leading climbers in the 80s, came down from Phoenix to bag the crux pitch using crack-n-ups and the then-smallest microwires for protection. I recall carrying three full sets of RPs for my ascent, and so armed, not having to use crack-n-ups. However, John Fowler, who was likely the 3rd person to lead the climb, recalls needing them. We didn't have microcams, offset HBs, and other modern trickery during those days, so whether crack-n-ups are mandatory is an open question; that is, until you climb it and tell us.
According to notes I took shortly after my ascent (25 years ago), the climb is "very sustained, multi-faceted" with "unique cruxes -- although no crux alone is probably harder than solid 5.11." The 1985 guide says "[s]everal questionable holds may be encountered." I don't remember a whole lot about it now, of course, so go climb it and find out for yourself.
The route begins in the obvious thin crack right of Cripple Creek. The crack doglegs left across Cripple Creek about 40-50 feet up, then continues diagonally up and left. The thin crack is obvious in the beta photo for Cripple Creek, showing that route in yellow. From the crack's end, a featured face leads to Cripple Creek's second belay. Take any of the easier lines to the top.
By the way, Ray Ringle named the climb after an Edward Gorey story, the first line of which is, "A is for Amy who fell down the stairs." Dark themes continue for the rest of the alphabet.