Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: The five asses. 1935.
Page Views: 689 total · 6/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Feb 11, 2010

You & This Route

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An undeniable classic. Les Cinq Ânes has fantastic exposure and phenominal position as it climbs up the steep, main prow of the formation.

Pitch 1: scramble on low angle rock, gaining the lower angle ridge crest and rising up to the right towards steeper ground. Step to the left and climb a corner system which morphs into a chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney. Around 90 feet long.

Pitch 2: climb on bucket holds up and to the right. Traverse to the right gaining the arête (whoo hoo!). Follow deep cracks to the right of the arête to an improbable belay perch. 90 feet.

Now what?

Finish on several options: La Traversée Bourgeois (4a), La Fissure des Cinq Ânes (6a+), or Le Tour de Cochon (5c).


Route is located at the bottom of the main prow of the buttress. Find an easy looking ridge of rock, ascend up this to the steeper corner system.

When in doubt, follow the polished rock!

By carrying all the kit, climbers can finish by hiking up for a short ways to the road and back to the parking area.


Fixed gear including a variety of glued in bolts. Fixed belay stations. Some medium sized nuts/cams may prove comforting as the distance between the bolts can be a bit daunting on the slippery rock.