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Les Cinq Ânes
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | The five asses. 1935. |
Page Views: | 1,354 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Feb 11, 2010 |
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Description
An undeniable classic. Les Cinq Ânes has fantastic exposure and phenominal position as it climbs up the steep, main prow of the formation.
Pitch 1: scramble on low angle rock, gaining the lower angle ridge crest and rising up to the right towards steeper ground. Step to the left and climb a corner system which morphs into a chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney. Around 90 feet long.
Pitch 2: climb on bucket holds up and to the right. Traverse to the right gaining the arête (whoo hoo!). Follow deep cracks to the right of the arête to an improbable belay perch. 90 feet.
Now what?
Finish on several options: La Traversée Bourgeois (4a), La Fissure des Cinq Ânes (6a+), or Le Tour de Cochon (5c).
Pitch 1: scramble on low angle rock, gaining the lower angle ridge crest and rising up to the right towards steeper ground. Step to the left and climb a corner system which morphs into a chimney. Belay at the top of the chimney. Around 90 feet long.
Pitch 2: climb on bucket holds up and to the right. Traverse to the right gaining the arête (whoo hoo!). Follow deep cracks to the right of the arête to an improbable belay perch. 90 feet.
Now what?
Finish on several options: La Traversée Bourgeois (4a), La Fissure des Cinq Ânes (6a+), or Le Tour de Cochon (5c).
Location
Route is located at the bottom of the main prow of the buttress. Find an easy looking ridge of rock, ascend up this to the steeper corner system.
When in doubt, follow the polished rock!
By carrying all the kit, climbers can finish by hiking up for a short ways to the road and back to the parking area.
When in doubt, follow the polished rock!
By carrying all the kit, climbers can finish by hiking up for a short ways to the road and back to the parking area.
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