PRINT: Rock Climb Creature from the Black Lagoon, Yosemite National Park

Creature from the Black Lagoon

5.10c, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 32 votes
FA: Scott Cole, Bruce Morris
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Olmsted Area > Olmsted Canyon Left

Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

A novelty route mostly, traverse along a flaring crack about 4ft above the "black lagoon" for maybe 50 ft, and then head up a 40ft 5.9 hand crack. I've tried traversing with feet in the crack and doing the tipsy shuffle, or traversing with hands in the crack. It felt very different but about the same difficulty either way.

See the awesome updated (4th ed.) Reid/Falkenstein guide for more info.

Location

The wall above the lagoon seen immediately upon entering Olmstead canyon.

Protection

A fall at the crux will almost certainly result in falling in the lake, so I would suggest either toproping from above with a moving belay, or soloing, since the crux is only 4 ft. above the lake. A fall into the lake would be embarrassing though, and you would hit the bottom as it is less than 6ft deep.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hillary going for the foot traverse approach on Creature

Just another butt shot

Illustrates the beautiful setting of this climb-boulder problem-TR. Photo: B. Morris.

The Black Lagoon claims another victim. Photo: Greg Epperson

Me, almost in the lake, thankful for the toprope

sequence

Jerry on his second attempt of the day

Scott Cole on his FA protected lead of "Creature from the Black Lagoon" prior to his solo FA.

Scott Cole soloing "Creature from the Black Lagoon" (5.10c), 1987.

Fun as a bunnnn

Me, starting the traverse

Scott Cole moving further along his FA solo of "The Creature from the Black Lagoon"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

c scott

This climb would be a sweet solo/bouldering problem. The water is shallow, but not too shallow. Also I don't remember any mean looking rocks lurking about. I can't wait to come back on a warm day and give it another go, sans rope! Feb 16, 2010

Brian Treanor

This "climb" is, in fact, a boulder problem. At least that's how I've done it every time. The traverse is just a few feet above the water, and the crack to the top is super easy. Still, the 10c rating belies the touch and go nature of the traverse. I go high, with feet in the flared crack, and there are some real tenuous bits for the grade. I know of a few solid climbers who have taken the plunge... Oct 15, 2011

Brad G

My shoes are now dry and my chalk bag is getting there. Jun 10, 2013

Kaleem Khwaja
Emeryville, California

5.10 PG13

Traversing with feet in the crack felt legit 5.10, but the lower hand-in-crack variation was WAY more difficult - maybe 11c?. I personally couldn't keep my feet out of the lagoon while staying low enough to keep from greasing out of the sloper horizontal crack.

We tested the bottom of the lagoon under the finish and it was soft, silty and almost 6 feet deep. The hand crack finish felt only about 5.8 and should be uneventful for anyone who can get to it. A great end to a weekend in the Meadows! Jul 28, 2014

Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA

No, "Creature from the Black Lagoon" was established as a lead climb, following the low finger tip (instead of the foot) traverse way. Scott Cole soloed it a few minutes after leading it. Cf. Picture attachment. Today, I'd say it's mostly done as a TR although there's a great picture of Charlie Barrett doing it as a boulder problem in the new fall 2014 issue of California Climber. Sep 24, 2014

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

Thank you for the clarification and historical perspective, Bruce. Sep 11, 2015

Justin Streit
Las Vegas, NV

This thing is the epitome of classic. Don't really care how this was originally done or its usually done; this is an awesome boulder problem! A must do. Only the first couple feet would be a dangerous fall and that part is really pretty easy. As said by others, once you get to the hand crack it's over assuming you have any competency in hand jamming. Get a group of friends together and see who takes the plunge first! Water was 6 feet deep with 1 foot of soft silty bottom at the base of the hand crack. Aug 22, 2016

Cole Gibson

Doing this climb as a TR would be an absolute travesty. So many better things to TR than to come to this CLASSIC shallow water solo/boulder problem and to defile it with a TR. What makes it amazing is the chance to take a little plunge!

The tradition I was shown is to go there with a group of friends and everyone goes into isolation (looks away) while each person tries. Once you fall in or send you can watch but everyone else has to go for the PURE onsight. Friends who don't want to try can sit on the other side of the lagoon for a perfect viewing. Makes for a hilarious time. Sep 5, 2017

Andy L

youtube.com/watch?v=PQq2vQh… Aug 18, 2019

Floyd McCluhan
Boulder, CO

If you are going to top rope this, remember to bring something to wrap the tree with. The tree has sustained a lot of damage from people using it as an anchor without wrapping it first. You can just use an extra shirt, or rope bag, etc, and it only takes a few seconds. It also goes without saying that you should protect any tree you're going to use as an anchor. Sep 5, 2020

Potter Wonderland
Planet Earth

Doing this on TR would be such a shame.. Aug 26, 2023