The Long Road
Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
Routes in Barks Canyon Wall
|Bandito Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Big Bruno T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Fettucini Afraido T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Glory Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Long Lead, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Long Road, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Simmer Til Done T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Stroke it Gently T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Tuesday Afternoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||737 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||nicholas bujak on Feb 10, 2010|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
DescriptionStarts below the open book same start as "Stroke it Gently" then traverse right and down to a dihedral capped by an overhang. Continue traversing right to a base of a vertical crack. Pitch 3 jam the crack when possible go left into a left leaning corner follow this to the top (5.9).
From Sean Peters:
The second pitch traverse is around 80 feet with minimal gear. The climbing is never difficult but a fall would be painful at best. Along the traverse you will pass one bolt and notice a rotten piton and one Los Banditos "Bad Bolt" on your way to the one bolt belay ledge. Unless you traverse way low you should come into the vertical crack right about the level of the belay ledge. The old belay bolt can be backed up with small gear.
Pitch three heads straight up off the belay into nice crack that gets easier the higher you climb. Basically you end up at the bottom of the chimney system of "Glory Road". We belayed here before traversing left on medium ledge to access the 5.9 crack. A quick mantle and short traverse left gets you to the base of crack. Small gear is key with one or two medium (#1's). Finish on easy face to summit.