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Routes in Barks Canyon Wall

Bandito Route T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Big Bruno T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fettucini Afraido T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Glory Road, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Long Lead, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Long Road, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simmer Til Done T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stroke it Gently T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tuesday Afternoon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 737 total, 8/month
Shared By: nicholas bujak on Feb 10, 2010 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

Starts below the open book same start as "Stroke it Gently" then traverse right and down to a dihedral capped by an overhang. Continue traversing right to a base of a vertical crack. Pitch 3 jam the crack when possible go left into a left leaning corner follow this to the top (5.9).

From Sean Peters:
The second pitch traverse is around 80 feet with minimal gear. The climbing is never difficult but a fall would be painful at best. Along the traverse you will pass one bolt and notice a rotten piton and one Los Banditos "Bad Bolt" on your way to the one bolt belay ledge. Unless you traverse way low you should come into the vertical crack right about the level of the belay ledge. The old belay bolt can be backed up with small gear.
Pitch three heads straight up off the belay into nice crack that gets easier the higher you climb. Basically you end up at the bottom of the chimney system of "Glory Road". We belayed here before traversing left on medium ledge to access the 5.9 crack. A quick mantle and short traverse left gets you to the base of crack. Small gear is key with one or two medium (#1's). Finish on easy face to summit.

Location

Same start as "Stroke it Gently"

Protection

Trad gear

Photos

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