Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,598 total · 13/month
Shared By: nicholas bujak on Feb 10, 2010 with improvements by bio
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

Start below a big left facing chossy looking (but not too bad) dihedral to the right of "The Long Lead", 5.8. 90ft to a bolted anchor consisting of one very old bolt and two bolts placed 2019. Pitch two is the 5.9. Good stemming makes the going easier. Pitch starts with a flaring hand crack on left, short finger crack in center, and fist/offwidth crack to right. Sufficient pro can be found in all three cracks, use alpine draws to prevent drag on this long pitch. After the obvious crack start to this pitch you'll move left, crossing easier but hard to protect section to chimney that is midway up 2nd pitch of The long lead. The chimney has good pro. Continue up chimney to bolted belay. The belay consists of two old 70's era self drive bolts with leeper hangers, one angle pin driven in a hole, and one bolt placed 2019.  Pitch three is a fifth class chimney, you'll find pro in the back if desired. You'll come to some large chockstones/boulders in chimney and if you look, there is a very narrow squeeze in the back. If you are not small or medium small at most, you'll not fit. I am a pretty small guy and I had to take off all my gear and helmet and I still barely fit. If you are claustraphobic do not try. Once above the squeeze you can set up a belay to bring up your partner. From there you scramble on easy 5th class terrain up a little more chimney, then right, up short juggy wall to top. You don't have to rappel off the back and scramble down to descend any more. If you have a 70m rope you can do 3 raps down stroke it gently. Getting to the top anchor for the first rap involves a little scrambling down from the summit, and a short but airy hop to the two bolt rap anchor.
If I were to do this route again I would likely do the first two pitches, then rap from there. The ledge at the top of the second pitch is also the ledge for stroke it gently and contains a nice rap anchor, located slightly to the right of where big Bruno comes to the ledge.  

Location

Left side of Bark's Canyon Wall. Start below a big left facing dihedral to the right of "The Long Lead".

Protection

Trad gear

Photos