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Random Mixed

WI4 M4-5, Mixed, Ice, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Hoosier Pass/Lincoln…

Description

These 2 short mixed lines are on the rock face left and lower from upper pillar (Newt's). The right route is harder and the start is commiting. I found an wire fused into a crack halfway up, so I do not know who first climbed this. The left route is easier- yet still fun and gives one options for the area.

Location

This is poised on the rock wall as you head up to the upper pillar (I have always referenced as Newt's Pillar).

Protection

Stubbies and a small gear, nuts and TCUs. This are nice, short leads for those aspiring to practice mixed.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Picture of random mixed routes from November, 2004.
[Hide Photo] Picture of random mixed routes from November, 2004.
A view of the left crack system starting after the 20 feet of ice lower on the route.
[Hide Photo] A view of the left crack system starting after the 20 feet of ice lower on the route.
Getting into the business in dry conditions.
[Hide Photo] Getting into the business in dry conditions.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] These two lines are just up and right from the first pillar of Center Flow Slab. You can get to them by either climbing that short pillar or hiking to climber's left from partway up the trail to Main Flow Right - very condition-dependent I think. When I climbed the left option listed here, it felt M6+ (definitely harder than Scottish Ale) and only had a smear of ice over the top, the rest being rock. I traversed in from the right on the diagonal flake, which had good pro to the corner, which also had good pro and was more strenuous than it looked. Cams from double green Aliens to 0.5 C4 plus a screw for the top. I recommend setting the anchor immediately above the topout for better communication and then rapping from a V-thread. Nothing worth doing higher up. The climb was pretty cool and pumpy but short, which you may appreciate if this is near your limit! Feb 27, 2023
Tim N
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] The left line listed here is a very fun mixed line. In the conditions we found it in, there was 20 or so feet of chill ice to the start of the rock. A pillar of ice to the left added some options at the start of the rock too. 6 new bolts nicely protect the route, although it could probably also be led on gear.

This has very fun climbing with a few steep moves. It felt similar to Jensen’s Crack to the right, so it is probably around M6. I agree it is harder than Scottish Ale. Jan 1, 2026