Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: George Hurley, Katy Cassidy, Earl Wiggins March 1988
Page Views: 922 total · 8/month
Shared By: jakobi on Feb 9, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Starts on the east face of the tower in the obvious, loose, guano coated dihedral. The Climbs starts on easy but loose terrain with stemming. The technical crux comes next when you have to decide just how much of your weight those keyed-in blocks can hold as you climb through a short overhanging section to an ever-widening double crack. The physical crux is as you'd guess; the offwidth/squeeze chimney, which leads to a good ledge. A short, interesting section of chimney ends at the fixed belay (good anchors) with a short scramble to the summit.


Downclimb easy terrain to the belay/rap anchors and rap the route. One double-rope rappel (60m)gets you to the ground.


Double set of camalots from fingers up to large tubes for the offwidth/squeeze.


Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
Another classic Wiggins squeeze! Most of the guano is avoidable, those blox are scary but you can protect in another crack and mostly stem around without using them much.
The first hard section of squeeze is fairly secure but tight right at the hips, #6 Camalot won't fit here. Second squeeze is even tighter and you're deep in so no pro really needed. I had to slouch my harness below my hips to make it and tag the rack outside the crack, better yet don't bring anything with you, although I placed a #5 after this and there is opportunity for other sizes, maybe hands. For reference I'm 150lbs and have a 31" waist, breathe in breathe out, don't freak out.
Maybe bring 1 #6 but leave it after the crack switch when the wide begins. Apr 19, 2017