Avg: 2.8 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||1,997 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||nicholas bujak on Feb 9, 2010|
|Admins:||Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland|
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Second pitch is the crux may even be a 10b. Starts out on a prominent crack that has a prominent piton close to the bottom. Its just left of the tough looking bolted route up over the overhang. That overhanging route is rated 5.11. Second pitch is obvious and visible from the ground. It's an left arching flairing crack that starts on a ledge. The third and fourth pitches are not as obvious but wander up to the top. There is no anchor on top of the fourth pitch and the downclimb to the anchors for lowering is a little exposed. I helpd my partner down by providing her with a belay. The walk off at times involves some scrambling but was generally not too difficult. We did it in the dark. LOL>
Barks Canyon left side of wall has several climbs on it. There is a 5.11b "Bandito Route" 3 pitches partially bolted line (starts on slab with rivet missing bolt to overhang protected by at least one old bolt) that looks tough and to the left of it is the 5.6 start to "Stroke it Gently" 10b, "The Long Road" 5.9 and "Glory Road" 5.7 all these climbs are four pitches, all start on the 5.6 crack protected with gear and two pitons. Further left I think there are two more climbs. The first one is called "Big Bruno"5.9 4 pitches (5.9,5.8,5.7,?). The second I think is "The Long Lead" 5.8 4 pitches.