Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Dr. Dan
Page Views: 945 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dustin B on Feb 8, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

This route has steeper face climbing on the right side of The Shield. Its difficulty seems to be dependent on the path taken through the crux, following the bolts directly is harder. It is a nice route with a rest at the midway anchors before the crux, it's 11- to there.

Location

The route shares start with Blood of a Dead Hero, then branches out right and up the steepest, cleanest part of the face.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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Dr. Dan
Steamboat Springs, CO
Dr. Dan   Steamboat Springs, CO
This route is called MPO (Mo's Pissed Off). The story is I was bolting it solo and stayed out way too late and my wife, Mo, was on the phone to SAR when I walked in the door.
Done as one pitch this is long hard route. The bottom half to the midway anchor is 11-. After mid-way, the climbing is straightforward until you reach a bulge and the bolts veer right. If you go off line to the up-left it is easy 10, but if you go right out over the bulge it involves a series (about 5) physical and precise moves.
I thought the crux was harder than many 12a's that I have climbed, but I would go with the 11+. Sep 11, 2014