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Routes in Lower Cathedral Rock

76 Degrees in the Shade T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beggar's Buttress T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bridalveil Falls East T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compass Rose T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crack immediately right of Unnamed But Beautiful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
End of The Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying High T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Groom's Variation, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Kung Fu Panda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mac Daddy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Overhang Bypass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overhang Overpass T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spectacle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sub-Mission T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Too Many Darts (Free Ascent) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unnamed N3 with chimney start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed but Beautiful T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Jim Donini et al, 1974
Page Views: 3,360 total · 32/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Feb 7, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Steep, clean, high quality, white granite corner.

Belay below a roof on gear. Pull the roof with hands to a rest. Then continue up an increasingly difficult corner. There are not many places to rest once you enter the business on this one so bring your boosters and endurance.

Watch out for loose gravel at the top belay. The leader can easily kick some of it down the corner.

Location

Follow approach for Overhang Bypass. Rappel the route from chains or continue on to the summit. For the summit option see Overhang Bypass pitch 4 & 5.

Protection

Pro to 2.5" Bring extra yellow through orange aliens or equivalent cams.

Photos

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
 
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
 
Donini story of first assent
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… May 14, 2012
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The crux is 0.5 (purple) Camalots, for those who don't know Alien sizes. Just a little bit wider than the crux of Butterballs and far harder for the grade.

This is sometimes regarded as the first 5.12 in Yosemite. If Fish Crack is in the running, then I suppose the Overpass should win the honor, since it's just as hard (imo) and was done a year earlier. Or if Fish Crack is downrated to 5.11 (which it maybe should be), and Overpass doesn't make the grade either, then I guess the title would go to Hotline, which is 5.12 no-doubt-about-it. Oct 1, 2014
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
 
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
 
crux is really bad size : wide open purple / very tight green camalots. Crux is relatively short no more than 10 feet, but harder than any 11c I tried in the Valley . Stunning line May 1, 2017

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