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Routes in Subskull

But It's Low Angle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Middle Man, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nasty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
RetroHang (temporary name) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Salonpas T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stacks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Belcer, Nate Arganbright, November 6, 2005
Page Views: 386 total, 4/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Feb 7, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

I am not sure if it would have helped, but I wish we had reported this route four years ago. After a ground-up, all trad first ascent by Jim and Nate in the fall of '05, we returned this winter to find it adorned with bolts.

It's a great little line with steep, sport-like climbing on natural gear.

Location

This stout little pitch is located on the left side of the eastern-most, south-facing section of Subskull. Starting on its right side, it takes a leftward rising traverse through the obvious overhang and pulls the left end of the lip to some fantastic chicken heads and knobs.

Protection

Light rack including Aliens, a #2 or 3 Camalot, stoppers, and shoulder slings to tie off chickenheads. Jim and Nate found 8 pieces of gear in the overhang, including a bomber #2 or 3 Camalot just below the lip, and a perfect stopper right at the lip. We're hoping the installers of the two offending bolts in the center of the overhang will remove them on their own, but, if not, I guess we'll have to clean up their little mess for them.

Jim and Nate scrambled off left from the top of the knobby slab atop the overhang. No fixed anchor.

Descend by scrambling up and around to the East.

Photos

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