Avg: 3 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bill Dunmire, Ed Robbins, Bill Long, & Dick Long - June, 1952|
|Page Views:||7,637 total · 60/month|
|Shared By:||Osprey Overhang on Feb 7, 2010|
|Admins:||M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
While the crux of the route is disputable, most parties who successfully navigate the approach and make it to the actual climb find that a short vertical section from the top of the Hog Trough to the traverse ledge is the technical crux.
Pitch 1) Climb up a ramping corner (easy fifth) into a roof. Traverse the roof to the left (5.5) and set up a belay from old pitons and gear below a striking corner. The length of this pitch is dependent upon how high up you can push the belay from the top of the approach.
Pitch 2) Climb the strikingly clean corner with great exposure called the Hog Trough (5.6) until you can go no further and belay from bushes. Protect this pitch with finger sized pieces, doubles not necessary. 100+ft.
Pitch 3) Crux. Time to make a decision. Do I climb up a groove passing a bolt, or do I inch my way out left over exposure and make a big move with small pro to reach an obvious ledge? Both are difficult 5.7 so you be the judge. Belay from bushes and or gear. 30ft.
Pitch 4) Bump the belay the right until you come to a bolted belay with rappel chains. This is the top of the Overhang Overpass corner and the beginning of pitch 4. (Easy escape down the Overpass to the base of the climb is possible here.) From the chains face climb (5.7) up good edges with pro, trending slightly left, and aiming for a bushy ledge. 100+ ft.
Pitch 5) No need to bump the belay, just move right and round a corner. Climb up easy fifth class face with good edges and crack. The angle will gradually ease up. Belay wherever you feel comfortable.
From the top of pitch 5, unrope and walk up to the summit.
1) Park where there are two long pullouts on both sides of the road just up river from the Bridalveil Falls parking lot. This is a popular tourist area and is at the northwestern toe of Lower Cathedral Rock.
2) Walk the trail toward the falls but turn left well before the falls are reached. Follow the base of the cliff up and to the right until you can't go any higher. You have just passed the approach gully/cleft on your left.
3) Some parties may want to rope up for short sections of this approach. Make sure you can identify Overhang Overpass and use it as a guiding point as the climbing starts just under that corner. Scramble left and up the clean and dirty rock gully for a few hundred feet. Soon you will reach a sandy area where you can't really go left anymore. This is where you start to angle to the right. Continue up and right mostly on a trail until you find yourself scrambling again. Do this until you reach a low angle ramp/corner system leading to the bottom of the Overpass. This ramp/corner is pitch one. Set up a belay on one of the trees to begin the climb. The higher you can push this belay up the better.
Descend the Gunsight (single rope rappels required for most parties) to the talus gully between Middle and Lower Cathedral Rocks. Find the hiking trail that parallels the road and follow this back to the parking area.
A brief word of caution: When entering the Gunsight on your descent. Do not enter the Gunsight too early unless you enjoy sliding down sandy slopes and drop offs. Make sure you walk past the entrance, then cut back and enter it straight on.