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Routes in The Lookout

Armor Plated S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Blue Flame S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Burnt Toast S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dozer Rage S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Granby S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harder They Come, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sweet Pea T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Kent Lugbill and Casey Newman
Page Views: 261 total · 2/month
Shared By: slim on Feb 5, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a very nice thin crack that only suffers from a short length. The climbing is very good.

Start up just to the left of the main crack in the center of the face (Sweet Pea - 5.10). Gain the left-leaning crack/seam, get situated, and then fire up a short, cruxy, plumbline thin crack. Break left and diagonal upwards past a second crux. Finish up slightly runout but much easier climbing until you can clip the anchor on the right.

If this route were longer it would be an excellent route. As it is, it is very good. The climbing is vertical, with thin feet, thin hands, and small but good gear.

Location

At The Lookout, this is the pretty thin crack that heads up and left across the face. Better and harder than it looks.

Protection

Gear for a thin crack. I used a red Loweball down low for a multi-directional first piece. After then, mostly small stoppers, TCUs, and a couple RPs to save finger space.

Photos

Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
I personally think this route is as hard, if not harder, than Blue Flame. Might be the size of my fingers? Jun 20, 2017

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