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Routes in Somewhere n00b

Bort S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Dress My Self T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Todd, The TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Road to Utopia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Bolted by Todd Gordon. Chopped by ?
Page Views: 103 total · 1/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Feb 4, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route starts several feet left of the chimney. Follow face to cracks, to scoops. Since the bolts were chopped, I'm not sure what's on top for anchors.

Protection

Maybe small to 2". It had bolts before. I don't know about the anchors.

Photos

shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
I went up on top of this today and there are still a couple anchors one lonely bolt towards the south and two on a slope on top 6 feet back from the lip? I suppose you could use those if you extended them out. The originals have been chopped as evidenced by the craters and sleeves remaining :-( Sep 7, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
So, the story is that Todd thought his ascent of "I Dress Myself" was an FA and someone chopped it because it wasn't?? Too bad, as "I Dress Myself" likely would get more traffic the way Todd equipped it. Jun 24, 2014
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Ben;....from what I gather...the "real" FA went up the chimney......THEN up the face.........We took a line to the left up the bucketed face, and placed bolts. I guess this was too close (and actually joined) the original route......so the bottom bolts were chopped. You can still do the original climb...and we even placed a bolt or two up higher.....and an anchor, which may or may not still be there......... Jun 25, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Thank you, Todd, for the update. Good luck on your FA adventures. Jun 25, 2014

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