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Routes in Somewhere n00b

Bort S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Dress My Self T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Todd, The TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Road to Utopia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Bolted by Todd Gordon, chopped by ?
Page Views: 402 total · 4/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Feb 4, 2010
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first route one comes to after scrambling to the base of the cliff.
It's hard to distinguish now that the bolts are gone. It's about 20 feet left of a short chimney. Follow big holds to incipient cracks where pro may be placed. Ends at the top of a ramp, witch can be used for descent.

Protection

Bolts have been chopped. Can be led on small to med. pro. Easily Top Roped.

Photos

shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
 
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
 
Scramble around left to get to the bolts on top and use these to top rope. Fun little climb nice and juggy easy approach. Oct 15, 2010
Larry
SoAZ
Larry   SoAZ
There's a Very Interesting second pitch up the down-flaring chimney slightly left. Jan 7, 2011
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Originally done with no bolts. (Gerberding/bartlett/reid ?)
Bolted up not knowing it was originally done without bolts. (by myself and friends.)
Chopped.
Re-established with bolts in different places. (unknown who re-established route)
Hangers spray-painted after they were installed...(a bit messy...).. Apr 30, 2016
The route was re-bolted in a very strange way ...first bolt is to low and the second is to high with a good chance of decking if you fall in between 1 & 2 ....and they spray painted the hangers after they were bolted to the wall , looks very Tacky ...In all a very poor rebolting Aug 30, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.7 PG13
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.7 PG13
It is an absolute botch job and the retrobolters, in standard fashion, have never come forward to claim their handywork. The spraypaint is the kicker... what a mess. At some point the entire thing will be erased, as monument to stupidity.

It is a shame that the handful of people who do know never come forward, or give better guidance to their sub men when they send them out to do this sort of shit. Aug 30, 2016
The rebolter is a Twentynine local named daniel stransky , he feels like he did a Justice To the local climbing community ...hard headed guy that doesn't listen to anyone's advice, a novice bolter at best , and a short person so all his climbs the first bolt is super low Aug 31, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.7 PG13
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.7 PG13
The rebolter is a Twentynine local named daniel stransky , he feels like he did a Justice To the local climbing community ...hard headed guy that doesn't listen to anyone's advice, a novice bolter at best , and a short person so all his climbs the first bolt is super low

Well, that is unfortunate he operates like that. His "work" is not how it should be done, anywhere. Fucking eyesore and yes, the Rangers are hip to it, and not digging it. Thanks for the added scrutiny Daniel.







Aug 31, 2016
Spray paint on the rock is horrible. WTF? Sep 4, 2016
Anni Ala
Joshua Tree
 
Anni Ala   Joshua Tree
 
At least 3 bolts (we did it as TR) and a two bolt anchor. We were able to overlook the hideous spray paint job & this was a super fun choose your own adventure with great holds! Apr 4, 2018

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