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Routes in The Coop

Chicken Cordon Bulge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coop Scoop, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Coop du jour S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Free Range T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Going Out Of Chicken Sale T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Last Chicken, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Touching the Coop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: DASampson,Geir,Marcy
Page Views: 686 total, 7/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Feb 4, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Two cruxes, both are protected. A bit sustained. And, a bit spicy near the top (the climb lets up considerably; A long fall is possible, but it my opinion the fall would be safe).

Location

Immediately left (5 meters)of "Going Out of Chicken Sale". Currently the only bolted line on the feature.

Protection

Seven bolts, rap anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10b/c
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10b/c
This is a really fun climb and won't feel "spicy" for climbing solidly at the grade (compared, for example to climbing "Eyes of the world" or "Batteries Not Included", or even "Adios Larry" in the Glitter Box). If nervous about the spacing, there are ample places for placing small-medium cams between bolts, though that will just pump you out further. Jan 7, 2013
here here..... I agree with all other posts. Nothing new to add, aside from a personal thank you to the putter-uppers. Nov 27, 2010
Thanks to everybody that has commented on the route. I am psyched that you all like the route! Mike; good work on the on-sight! Mar 29, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10d PG13
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10d PG13
Excellent onsight by Mike Dudley this past weekend - he was pumped before starting the runout but managed to find a rest, gather himself, and push through. Real nice work, Mike! David will be proud as he's a great onsight climber. Mar 25, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10+ PG13
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10+ PG13
EXCELLENT route! i think the bolts are spaced a bit far apart for someone who isn't really solid on 5.10 though. a spicy sport route for sure. Mar 21, 2010
Mike Dudley
Vegas
  5.10d
Mike Dudley   Vegas
  5.10d
David thanks so much! I found this to be amazing. The bolts were perfectly spaced and the climbing was out of this world. Thanks again David awesome route! Mar 21, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10b/c
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10b/c
A very fun line, David, thanks! Reminded me of Adios Larry with the thin holds and graceful moves needed for the crux -- an excellent addition to LDE. Feb 7, 2010
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10+ PG13
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.10+ PG13
Good work, David! Solid 5.10 as compared with other routes in the area. In my opinion, the route is PG13 with the potential for a very long fall higher up. Feb 4, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10d PG13
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10d PG13
Also see the overview photo to help locate this line.

This is a really fun line, and it is SPICY at the top (hence my PG13 rating).

Bolting this climb was a difficult task. David figured out the route and provided all the work and hardware, Marcy and I came along to help and to have fun. We almost didn't go because Marcy was sick. Record rainfall really messed up the road so the drive in was very rough. Also, the creek at the bottom of the canyon swelled so badly that it took us nearly two hours to cross. When we finally got to LDE, Marcy wasn't feeling well and needed all our extra layers to stay warm. Still, we all pushed on, David got the route done, redpointed it, and we hurriedly bailed and got some pizza. It was worth it, though, because the route really is neat! Feb 4, 2010