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Routes in The Eden Wall

East of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fish & Whistle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Forbidden Fruit S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Garden Of Eden T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tree of Knowledge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
West of Eden T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 145 ft
FA: Craig Luebben, Alex Shainman, Mike ? (forgot your name, bro), summer of 1992
Page Views: 1,325 total, 14/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Feb 2, 2010 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start off with bolt-protected fun and varied face-climbing with a distinct crux and finish off with meandering 5.9+ climbing and gear protection. A nice, long, mixed pitch done ground up.

Location

This is on the leftmost edge of the Eden Wall (left of East Of Eden).

Protection

10 bolts, gear up to a #2 or #3 Camalot (mostly thinner stuff) 2 ropes, 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11a
You can lower to the Forbidden Fruit anchors with a 70m then rap to the ground. Not sure if a 60m would work.

At the top of the route continue straight up for the best climbing and to avoid the huge killer block to the left. Nov 24, 2016
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
You can lower off with an 80m, if you clean the gear. Nov 14, 2015
BrendanP Moran
Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10d
BrendanP Moran   Fort Collins, Colorado
  5.10d
Maybe the coolest single mixed pitch I've done thus far. I found the last couple of moves hard enough to protect that I ended up running it out. Pretty exciting! But I came up just slightly left of the anchors, which may not have been the best way.... Apr 20, 2014
Did this route for the first time yesterday, and I thought it was a blast. The bolted section is thin with some nice moves, and I thought the bolts were well placed. Above the bolts, the climbing is still fun, though it's a bit dirty and has some vegetation in the way. Used some nuts and smaller cams (placed my blue Mastercam and wanted another higher up but didn't have doubles). You'll need double ropes for the rappel, as even a 70m won't make it. There is a quicklink on the last bolt. Oct 3, 2012
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  5.11a
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  5.11a
A great route for any climber who clips bolts @ the grade and plugs gear on slightly easier lines. The climbing is almost split evenly between bolted and gear climbing. Lots of fun!!! Apr 2, 2011
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
One of the better pitches that I have done in the canyon.... I thought the climbing was continuous in the 5.10 range for 145ft. Bring a purple Alien and small RPs to protect the final bulge, which is a wee-bit exciting. Dec 25, 2010
Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Classic Poudre Canyon route. Jun 8, 2010