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Hanging by a Moment

WI4 M6, Trad, Mixed, Ice, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 23 votes
FA: Brad White?
New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > - Kinsman Notch > - Kinsman Notch Ice (…

Description

A short steep pillar lead to an easy ramp where you can catch your breath and clip a couple fixed pins. Set your tools and work your feet up as you torque and hook your way out of this one. All of the moves are manageable if hard, the top out is the crux. There used to be frozen turf to hook but that is since long gone. Try it a few times and you'll figure it out.

Location

Left side of the rock butress in the middle of the crag. A 20 foot curtain lead to an overhanging finger crack.

Protection

a few small cams, nuts and maybe #1 or #2 for the top. Screws and draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Getting all mixed up. Photo by JP Gannon
[Hide Photo] Getting all mixed up. Photo by JP Gannon
Pavan topping out. The route climbs the ice on the right and exits through the finger crack. The fat flow to the left (partly visible), is a different (pure ice) route.
[Hide Photo] Pavan topping out. The route climbs the ice on the right and exits through the finger crack. The fat flow to the left (partly visible), is a different (pure ice) route.
Hanging by a moment from the right side before the main curtain is in.
[Hide Photo] Hanging by a moment from the right side before the main curtain is in.
Hanging by a Moment as a free-standing pillar
[Hide Photo] Hanging by a Moment as a free-standing pillar
Hanging by a moment
[Hide Photo] Hanging by a moment

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  WI4 M6
[Hide Comment] The pins on this route are junk. One pulled on me last year, I don't remember if I replaced it or just used nuts. The crack takes good pro, but I think I remember being glad to clip the first one on the top of the ice. Needs a little tlc. Dec 24, 2011
Jack L
NH/Finger Lakes NY
[Hide Comment] My impression is that most people are actually climbing what I've heard called "Irish Drool," the more reliable short and steep pure ice climb to a ramp just to the left of the main "Hanging by a Moment" curtain + overhanging crack. Different tree anchors and very different climbing probably = two different routes Mar 7, 2023