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Sergeant Pepper

5.11b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2 from 10 votes
FA: Bob Gaines & Frank Bentwood, January 2010
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland South > S Wonderland Ap… > Sergeant Rock
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb a delicate slab, with a pure friction crux (5.10-), then power over a bulge at a vertical seam (5.11) to more delicate smearing (5.10-) to the top.

If you’re toproping, the face just left of the bulge/seam has also been climbed, with a fantastic sequence (11d).

Location

The face between Suffering Catfish and 39 Steps.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt chain anchor. The crux is very well protected.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matt Beebe at the crux on the lead
[Hide Photo] Matt Beebe at the crux on the lead
the crux
[Hide Photo] the crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This felt a little hard at 11a. Really good though, just needs more traffic. Dec 3, 2011
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Thoughtful, sustained, well protected friction (if a tad grainy). Crux is delicate and powerful. Convenient bolt anchor for toproping (HUGE 14mm 50kN Petzl glue ins) Apr 12, 2012
Ryan Bracci
San Juan Capistrano, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The rocks pretty crumbly here. Needs more traffic or cleaning. Apr 22, 2016
Matt Beebe
Twentynine Palms
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] Fourth bolt hanger is a spinner. Fortunately you just have to do two moves before you clip the fifth. Unique physical crux. Jan 26, 2025