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Crying Flyboys

5.13a, Sport, 35 ft,  Avg: 3.2 from 16 votes
FA: D. Montgomery & D. Mabe, 1/10
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Primo Wall
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project - Completed Details
Access Issue: Private land Details

The Skinny!

Crying Flyboys is a new addition to Primo Wall that is located just right of Flying Cowboys on immaculate stone.

Start up a good, side-pull flake and pull up to a wonderful, sloper-rail traverse. Make your third clip and emabark into a cruxy, barn-dooring seam, to a fun mantle over the lip. Do you gaston? Do you huck? Find out for yourself or you might just be a Crying Flyboy!

I like to think of this route as an oversized V8 boulder problem... with a rope.

Protection

4 bolts with fixed draws + 2 bolt anchor with fixed biners.
  • It is not recommended to TR this route.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Lukester going for the lip!
[Hide Photo] The Lukester going for the lip!
Kevin going for Crying Flyboys.
[Hide Photo] Kevin going for Crying Flyboys.
Darren looking fly on the fun sloper rail traverse.<br>
-photo by anonymous flyboy.
[Hide Photo] Darren looking fly on the fun sloper rail traverse. -photo by anonymous flyboy.
Crying Flyboys 12d.  note: there is no red tag anymore, enjoy.
[Hide Photo] Crying Flyboys 12d. note: there is no red tag anymore, enjoy.
Getting the FA of Crying Flyboys.<br>
-photo by Darren Mabe.
[Hide Photo] Getting the FA of Crying Flyboys. -photo by Darren Mabe.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Luke Childers
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Sweet!! Can't wait to get on this one!! It looks like a sweet addition to "The Primo Wall." Nice work, guys!! Jan 31, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] This is my kind of bouldering! Great fun!

Key beta: kegel exercises. Jan 31, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] Cool route. Good to see the new lines going in! Feb 1, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] What a cool little route. Packs a lot more punch than it appears from the ground as well. Cool series of in-obvious moves with an awesome toss to the lip. Mar 17, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Can Nick kegal?

5.13b?! I barely consider myself a 5.12 climber! Woo!

Glad you enjoyed it though! :) Apr 21, 2010
Luke Childers
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Sandbagged??!!? This is a rarity for Clear Creek it seems.... The place that has had a history of people claiming that the climbing is soft may be turning over a new leaf!!!

Is it so?? Could this be it??? Is the canyon working on a new reputation... one of desperate sandbagged climbing!!! that leaves only the broken core of what was once rock climber.

These are difficult times, my friends. Be careful who you talk to about these matters and really think about who you are going to side with in the end.
Is it going to be the... "it's so sandbagged" group or the "it's too soft?" So, as I digress one must remember to be mindful when discussing route difficulty with others because you never know who may be listening.............. Apr 21, 2010
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
[Hide Comment] Kaelen, agreed! Don't be dissuaded by Wiled Horse's comments, this route is a little sandbagged and he does climb 5.13.... Here's my two cents.... At first glance, I thought this route looked unappealing to me, but I decided to try it the other day. To my surprise, it was actually fun with good bolt placements and good stone (nice eye, boys). However, the 12d grade seems a little off to me. I feel that Anarchitect is a real 12d, and I'm pretty sure that most agree. This route is harder. Seems to me that the crux of this route has a single harder move on it or at least a comparable move to Public, Squeeze Play, and River Run, which are all on the same wall. Okay, maybe not, but this thing is spitting me off, and I'm pissed! We can all say it's 12d when we do it and be the Crying Flyboys club, but until then, this thing is 13a+! Jun 2, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] So it's not just a clever name! Watching you guys on this last night definitely reminded me how hard this route is. I'm not a consistent 5.13 climber, so I gave it the hardest grade that I've climbed a lot of...12d. Seemed pretty hard when I sent. You're right compared to Anarchitect, or The Gauntlet. It's a lot harder crux and very low percentage. Jun 3, 2010
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
[Hide Comment] I got the name reference right away...and I seem to remember you walking that first pitch to the Wall of 90s project which clocks in somewhere around 13b? And by walking it, I mean you make it look like 10b, soooo, I would say, yes, you have climbed 13. But like I said, I'll "cry" about it until I send it, and then I'll probably call it 12d! Ha, good job though! Jun 3, 2010
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] I've changed the grade to 13a/V8. It's hard to grade such a short route, but it seems to be making "crying flyboys" out of some very strong climbers ;)
regardless of the grade it's a very worthy opponent to spar with. Good luck on the up coming sends! Jun 3, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] For our first route together, and meeting up for what we called "second-shift" after work in the chilling dark of a January night, Dave and I poked the bolts in. As we worked out the moves, and realizing the full potential of our reaches and kegal strengths (Dave and I are almost identical heights and almost the same ape-indexes) he proudly sent shortly after.


Regarding the grade, well, perhaps the way we did it is a bit height dependent. There. I said it, but ironically we too compared it to the single crux move of Anarchitect, which by itself is probably V6 but the sustained nature of the route is solid 12d. The crux of CF is maybe V7+ albeit one move wonder, thus clocking CF in at a good ol' sandbagged 12d (again, what do I know I don't boulder). I am more than fine calling it 13-. Adam and Derek are hardly crying, as their resumes of 13s and hard boulder problems speak for themselves, justifying the credibility of a more accurate rating. I am honored and psyched to give you two something challenging, glad you enjoy it, and if the bolts are in the right spots, I can't ask for anything more! Shookading!

So, with all the Primo linkups, who is gonna sack up for the "Crying Flying Cow-Patty Child"? ;) Jun 4, 2010
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
[Hide Comment] Big Wall Mabe! Are those Makalus on your feetsies? Jun 5, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] I can only stand in aiders with flip-flops when it's warm. Jun 8, 2010
Luke Childers
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Got on this today on top rope! Got my butt kicked!! It was great and interesting. For a short route to climbing and the stone quality are well worth giving this one some attention!! Great route and one I'm going to be working on. As for the grade..... I say... hard until otherwise sent!! Thanks for the great route, guys. Luke-Out Dec 10, 2010
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] I love this one. Dec 14, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Came back to this one the other day in the freezing cold after having sampled it in the spring; I had forgotten how much fun this one is. Great movement with ever increasing difficulty to an awesome toss to the lip! Great job on this one guys, a quality addition to this wall.

When compared to other .13a's in the Front Range like Sonic Youth, Old Yellar, or The Monument, this one seems easy. I would probably give this a slash rating if there was the option, but I'll take the .13a : ) Jan 7, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] 12e. Jan 8, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Luke, great to see you out and about and on the mend! Jan 8, 2011
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Darren, you know there's nothing on earth that can stop that beast! Rock juice is coursing through his veins....

12e - perfect! My thoughts exactly, Dave! Jan 8, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Darren.... I love me some rock and really want send this baby!! Jay and Kevin!!! Wow, you guys put that hog away!! Nice sending, people!! Jan 26, 2011
Luke Childers
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Been on this one a few times and couldn't ever stick the right hand move into the shallow, left-facing seam!! But today that all changed!! Using a thumb pinch on that move allowed me to stick the evil, vertical seam!! And as for the finish moves, I found an ok left hand crimp up and left of the seam that then allowed me to dive at the lip and stick it!! Not the beta I've seen friends use to send, but it worked for me!! Now I still did not send today, but I got the line clean from the sloppy ledge, so I feel close!!! Really pumped to get back out to finish this one off!! Postive things here, people!!! Maybe it's unjustified optimism, but I do believe with my new beta that I can or at least have a great chance of getting this one in the bag next time I'm there!!!! As for my feeling on the grade at this point... I say... five freaken' funteen A!!! WOW!! What fun!! Hope I can sleep tonight! Ye-ha... stepinahoedown partner!! Oct 22, 2011
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
[Hide Comment] Short, but oh so very sweet! Apr 28, 2013
Luke Childers
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Got this one today after many days on over 2 months and had a fantastic time working the red point. A truly fine addition to the wall and glad I was able to experience it. So thanks, Dave and Darren. Well done, men. May 16, 2013
[Hide Comment] A nice slice of humble pie right here. Maybe I just don't know how to do it, but I was unable to do the gaston move despite being a very capable boulderer. Oh well I'll probably do the climbs near it that are a number grade harder first. Oct 13, 2016