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Routes in East Fork Valley

Ambush Plaisir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arsenault-Bouchard T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
East Chimney/South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Great Grey Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Think Therefore I Ambush T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
M Buttress T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midsummer Dome, South Face Center T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Midsummer's Dome SSW T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
No Picnic for Old Men T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
North Face of Ambush Peak T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raid Peak-South Buttress,East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Runnel Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1 R
Son Of Raid T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southwest Face Midsummer's Dome T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft, 16 pitches, Grade IV
FA: August 1994 - Steve Arsenault and John Bouchard
Page Views: 3,739 total, 39/month
Shared By: Mark Arsenault on Jan 31, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Originally, we were intending to free the earlier route,(Arsenault-Young)done in the early 70's. We thought this line looked better, which paralled the older line, going all free. The route followed up and right, below an arching flake system for two pitches to a large ledge. Continue up and right,(5.9 face), to ledges. Up for 3-4 pitches to huge, protected ledge, behind flakes, (cairn). Up face,(5.9or10), heading for a 200 foot long dihedral which can be seen from ground. At top, trend right onto North Face and follow face and cracks for another 5-6 pitches to top. See photo.

Protection

We brought a few pitons which were useful and placed a few bolts for belays.

Photos

Chris Dickson
Telluride, Colorado
 
Chris Dickson   Telluride, Colorado
 
This route takes an interesting line up the NE corner of Ambush and climbs some really great pitches along the way. Many thanks to Arsenault and Bouchard for pioneering this route! We climbed the intro pitches on the slabs in one long simul-block (lots of 5.7/5.8 R slab climbing) to the base of a clean corner with a finger crack in the back (belay on a small ledge at a piton). Then we did two pitches to the amazing bivy site behind a huge flake (look for a traverse back left out of the third class grassy gully). From there, it was the "crux pitch", which Kelsey rates 10+ (maybe 20 feet of thin cracks and face?) to the base of the dihedral, another pitch up the dihedral, and then two long pitches to the summit (look for a really cool rusty old bolt on the 10b pitch!). Overall, this route does not disappoint and provides an excellent long adventure up the most badass peak in the East Fork! Aug 28, 2017
In the new Kelsey guidebook,(2013), this route is called "Hole in the Wall". As I have done this route 3 times, I might add that there are many options, as to which way to go, after you climb the huge 200 foot inside corner, ( about 2/3rds up the face). I have always gone around to the right onto the North Face, which adds about 5 more pitches of steep climbing, ending close to the true summit of Ambush Peak. Sep 13, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
Yes, Ambush Peak - the big buttress in the South end of the Valley. Jan 15, 2013
Jason Denver
  5.10 R
Jason Denver  
  5.10 R
Pretty sure it's considered Ambush peak. Maybe the south summit Jan 15, 2013
What peak is this route on? Jan 13, 2013
Mark,
Thanks so much for making this entry. Don't think this classic line is in the existing Kelsey Guidebook. Would you be able to give a better pitch by pitch description?...How consistent for the grade? Definitely on my wish list...could it even be maybe a Grade V? Big day by all accounts!
cheers,
jg Feb 19, 2010